Life Events

02 Aug 2024

Who is entitled to Social Security disability benefits? How is a “disability” determined? How long do payments continue? What happens when you reach retirement age? This Financial Guide provides information you should know about Social Security disability benefits in the event you or a loved one becomes disabled.

Every family needs to plan for the possibility of a disabling illness that prevents a breadwinner from earning income. Here is a summary of the part that Social Security benefits will play in your disability insurance planning, the amount you’re entitled to, and the applicable rules. This Guide also informs you of what changes you need to report to Social Security and the easiest ways to report them.


  • General Information
  • Taxation Of Benefits
  • Benefit Payments
  • Having A Child After Benefits Start
  • Reaching Retirement Age
  • Eligibility For Medicare
  • Changes That Can Affect Your Benefits
  • How To Report A Change
  • Disability Case Reviews
  • Work Incentives
  • Benefits For Children and Students
  • Your Right To An Appeal
General Information

An individual who the Social Security Administration determines to be “disabled” receives an Award Letter, which is a notice of decision that explains how much the disability benefit will be and when payments start. It also tells you when you can expect your condition to be reviewed to see if there has been any improvement

Planning Aid: Disability Benefits gives a general overview of social security disability benefits.

You never have to pay for information or service at Social Security. Some businesses advertise that they can provide name changes, Social Security cards, or earnings statements for a fee. All these services are provided free by Social Security.

Generally, a worker is entitled to disability if they are:

  1. “Insured” for disability (i.e., have accumulated sufficient credits in the Social Security system). Under age 65.
  2. Have been disabled or are expected to be disabled for at least 12 months.
  3. Have filed an application for benefits.
  4. Have completed a five-month waiting period.

In general, to get disability benefits, you must meet two different earnings tests:

  • A “recent work” test based on your age at the time you became disabled; and
  • A “duration of work” test to show that you worked long enough under Social Security.

Certain blind workers only need to meet the “duration of work” test.

Disability is generally defined as the inability to perform substantial gainful activity due to a medical or mental impairment. Social Security pays benefits to people who cannot work because they have a medical condition that is expected to last at least one year or result in death. Federal law requires this very strict definition of disability, and meeting this definition under Social Security is difficult.

If you are getting disability benefits on your work record or a deceased spouse’s record, your payments cannot begin before the sixth full month of disability. Your first payment may include back benefits if the sixth month has passed.

Your Social Security disability benefit may be reduced if you are eligible for workers’ compensation, other public disability payments, or a pension from a job where you did not have to pay Social Security taxes (discussed later). You can expect your payment amount to go up in future years. Whenever the cost of living goes up in a year, benefits will be increased by that amount the following January. If there is an increase, you will get a notice about it.

If a person claiming to be a Social Security employee visits you to talk about Social Security or SSI, ask for identification. A bona fide Social Security employee will gladly show you proper identification. If you have any doubts, check with SSA. Remember: Social Security employees will never ask you for money to have something done. It is their job to help you.

Taxation Of Benefits

Some people who get Social Security must pay taxes on their benefits. About one-third of our current beneficiaries pay taxes on their benefits. You will only be affected if you have substantial income in addition to your Social Security benefits. You must pay taxes if you file a federal tax return as an “individual” and your combined income is more than $25,000. Combined income is the total amount of your adjusted gross income + nontaxable interest + 1/2 of your Social Security benefits. If you file a joint return, you may have to pay taxes if you and your spouse have a combined income of more than $32,000. If you are married and file a separate return, you will probably pay taxes on your benefits.

Benefit Payments

When to Expect Them

Your check should arrive on the third day of every month. If the third falls on a Saturday, Sunday, or legal holiday, you will receive your check on the last banking day before that day. The check you receive is the benefit for the previous month, i.e., the check you receive dated July 3 is for June.

Form of Payment

Your benefit can be deposited directly into your bank account or paid through the Direct Express card program. The money is deposited on the second, third, or fourth Wednesday, depending on your day of birth. For more information: Schedule of Social Security Benefit Payments for 2023.

Direct Deposit. Direct deposit of your check is safe, reliable, and convenient.

Questions about direct deposit and Direct Express can be answered by your financial institution or any Social Security office.

Direct Express. Direct Express is a prepaid debit card that does not require a bank account but still gives you the same advantages as direct deposit.

It is especially important to tell Social Security about any change in your mailing address when you receive your benefits by direct deposit. If you decide to change the account or the financial institution where your benefits are going, keeping the old account open until the first benefit is received in your new account is important. It usually takes one or two months to process the change from one bank or account to another.

Duration of Payments

Your disability benefits generally continue for as long as you cannot work and your impairment has not medically improved. They will not necessarily continue indefinitely, however. Because of advances in medical science and rehabilitation techniques, many people with disabilities recover from serious accidents and illnesses. Also, many individuals, through determination and effort, overcome serious conditions and return to work despite them.

Having A Child After Benefits Start

If you become the parent of a child after you begin receiving Social Security benefits and the child is in your care, be sure to notify SSA so that the child can also receive benefits.

Reaching Retirement Age

If you are still getting disability benefits when you reach full retirement age, your benefits will be automatically changed to retirement benefits, generally in the same amount. You will receive a new booklet explaining your rights and responsibilities as a retired person. If you are a disabled widow or widower, your benefits will be changed to regular widow or widower benefits (at the same rate) at 60. You will receive a new instruction booklet that explains the rights and responsibilities of people who get survivors benefits.

Eligibility For Medicare

After you receive disability benefits for 24 months, you will be eligible for Medicare. You will get information about Medicare several months before your coverage starts. If you have permanent kidney failure requiring regular dialysis or a transplant or you have amyotrophic lateral sclerosis (Lou Gehrig’s disease), you may qualify for Medicare almost immediately.

Changes That Can Affect Your Benefits

You should promptly report any changes affecting your disability benefits. Family members receiving benefits also should report events that might affect their checks. The events that must be reported are explained in this section.

If you work while receiving disability payments

Notify SSA if you take a job or become self-employed, no matter how little you earn. Tell them how many hours you expect to work and when your work starts or stops. If you still are disabled, then you will be eligible for a trial work period, and you can continue receiving benefits for up to nine months. Also, tell SSA if you have any special work expenses because of your disability (such as specialized equipment, a wheelchair, or even prescription drugs) or if there is any change in the amount of those expenses.

If you receive other disability benefits

Social Security benefits for you and your family may be reduced if you are eligible for workers’ compensation (including payments through the black lung program) or disability benefits from certain federal, state, or local government programs. You must tell SSA if:

  • You apply for another type of disability benefit;
  • You receive another disability benefit or a lump-sum settlement; or
  • Your benefits change or stop.

If you are offered services under the Ticket to Work Program

Social Security may send you a Ticket that you can use to obtain services to help you go to work or earn more money. You may take the Ticket to your state vocational rehabilitation agency or an Employment Network of your choice. Employment Networks are private organizations that have agreed to work with Social Security to provide employment services to beneficiaries with disabilities. Your participation in the Ticket Program is voluntary, and the services are provided at no cost to you.

If you move

When you plan to move, give SSA your new address and phone number as soon as you know them. Also, let them know the names of any family members who are getting benefits and are moving with you. Even if you receive your benefits by direct deposit, the social security office must have your correct address to send you letters and other important information. Your benefits will be stopped if they are unable to contact you. You can change your address here. Be sure you also file a change of address with your post office.

If you change direct deposit accounts

If you change financial institutions or open a new account, be sure to say that you want to sign up for direct deposit. You also can change your direct deposit online if you have a personal identification number and a password. Or, SSA can change your direct deposit information over the telephone. Have your new and old bank account numbers handy when you call. It takes about 30-60 days to change this information. Do not close your old account until you make sure your Social Security benefits are deposited into the new account.

If you are unable to manage your benefits

Sometimes, people are unable to manage their money. When this happens, Social Security should be notified. They can arrange to send benefits to a relative or another person who agrees to use the money to take care of the person for whom the benefits are paid. The person who manages someone else’s benefits is called a “representative payee.”

People who have “power of attorney” for someone do not automatically qualify to be the person’s representative payee. For more information, ask Social Security for A Guide For Representative Payees (Publication No. 05-10076).

If you get a pension from work not covered by Social Security

If you start receiving a pension from a job for which you did not pay Social Security taxes – such as the federal civil service system, some state or local pension systems, nonprofit organizations, or a foreign government – your Social Security benefit may be reduced. Also, be sure to notify SSA if the amount of your pension changes.

If you get married or divorced

If you get married or divorced, your Social Security benefits may be affected, depending on the kind of benefits you receive.

If your benefits are stopped because of marriage or remarriage, they may be started again if the marriage ends.

If you change your name

If you change your name by marriage, divorce, or court order, you must tell SSA immediately. If you do not give them this information, your benefits will be issued under your old name, and if you have direct deposit, payments may not reach your account. If you receive checks, you may not be able to cash them if your identification differs from the name on your check.

If you care for a child who receives benefits

If you receive benefits because you are caring for a disabled worker’s child who is younger than age 16 or disabled, notify SSA right away if the child leaves your care. You must give them the name and address of the person with whom the child lives.

A temporary separation may not affect your benefits if you continue to have parental control over the child; however, your benefits will stop if you no longer have responsibility for the child. If the child returns to your care, SSA can start sending your benefits to you again.

Your benefits usually stop when the youngest, unmarried child in your care reaches age 16 unless the child is disabled.

If you become a parent after entitlement

If you become the parent of a child after entitlement (including an adopted child), let SSA know so they can determine if the child qualifies for benefits.

If a child receiving benefits is adopted

When a child receiving benefits is adopted by someone else, let SSA know their new name, the date of the adoption decree, and the adopting parent’s name and address. The adoption will not cause the child’s benefits to stop.

If you have an outstanding warrant for your arrest

You must tell SSA if you have an outstanding arrest warrant for any of the following felony offenses:

  • Flight to avoid prosecution or confinement;
  • Escape from custody; and
  • Flight-escape.

You cannot receive regular disability benefits or any underpayments you may be due for any month with an outstanding arrest warrant for felony offenses.

If you are convicted of a crime

Tell SSA immediately if you are convicted of a crime. Regular disability benefits or any underpayments that may be due are not paid for the months a person is confined for a crime. Any family members eligible for benefits based on that person’s work may continue to receive benefits.

Monthly benefits or any underpayments that may be due usually are not paid to someone who commits a crime and is confined to an institution by court order and at public expense. This rule applies if the person has been found:

  • Not guilty by reason of insanity or similar factors (such as mental disease, mental defect, or mental incompetence); or
  • Incompetent to stand trial.

If you violate a condition of parole or probation

You must tell SSA if you are violating a condition of your probation or parole imposed under federal or state law. You cannot receive regular disability benefits or any underpayment that may be due for any month in which you violate a condition of your probation or parole.

If you leave the United States

If you are a U.S. citizen, you can travel to or live in most foreign countries without affecting your Social Security benefits. There are, however, a few countries where Social Security payments generally cannot be sent to. These countries are Azerbaijan, Belarus, Georgia, Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, Moldova, Tajikistan, Turkmenistan, Ukraine, Uzbekistan, and Vietnam. In addition, U.S. Department of the Treasury regulations prohibits making payments if you are in Cuba or North Korea.

Let SSA know if you plan to go outside the United States for a trip that lasts 30 days or more. Tell SSA the name of the country or countries you plan to visit and the date you expect to leave the United States.

They will send you special reporting instructions and tell you how to arrange for your benefits while you are away. Be sure to notify SSA when you return to the United States.

If you are not a U.S. citizen and you return to live in the United States, you must provide evidence of your non-citizen status to continue receiving benefits. If you work outside the United States, different rules apply in determining whether you can get your benefits.

For more information, ask any Social Security office for a copy of Your Payments While You Are Outside The United States (Publication No. 05-10137).

If your citizenship status changes

If you are not a U.S. citizen, let SSA know if you become a U.S. citizen or if your non-citizen status changes. If your immigration status expires, you must give SSA new evidence that shows you continue to be in the United States lawfully.

If a beneficiary dies

Let SSA know if a person receiving Social Security benefits dies. Benefits are not payable for the month of death. That means if the person died at any time in July, for example, the check received in August (which is payment for July) must be returned. If direct deposit is used, also notify the financial institution of the death as soon as possible so it can return any payments received after the death.

Family members may be eligible for Social Security Survivors Benefits when a person getting disability benefits dies.

If you are receiving Social Security and Railroad Retirement benefits

If you receive both Social Security and Railroad Retirement benefits based on your spouse’s work and your spouse dies, you must tell SSA immediately. You will no longer be eligible to receive both benefits. You will be notified of which survivor benefit you will receive.

How To Report A Change

You can report a change by calling the Social Security Administration at (800) 772-1213 or visiting any SSA office. You can also visit the Social Security Administration website. If you send a report by mail, be sure to include the following information:

  • Your name, and if different, the name and Social Security claim number of the person on whose account you get benefits
  • Name of person(s) about whom the report is made
  • Your Social Security claim number
  • What new information is being reported
  • Date of the change
  • Your signature, address, phone number, and date

If you are getting benefits on somebody else’s record (e.g., a spouse), SSA needs their Social Security number as well.

Disability Case Reviews

Under federal law, all disability cases must be reviewed occasionally. This review ensures that people receiving benefits are still considered disabled and meet all other requirements. Your benefits generally will continue unless there is strong proof that your condition has medically improved and there is evidence that you can return to work.

Frequency of Reviews

How often your case is reviewed depends on the severity of your condition and the likelihood of improvement. The frequency can range from six months to seven years. Your Certificate of Award states when you can expect your first review.

Here are general guidelines for reviews:

Improvement expected – If medical improvement can be predicted when benefits start, your first review should be six to 18 months later.

Improvement possible – If medical improvement is possible but cannot be predicted, your case will be reviewed about every three years.

Improvement not expected – If medical improvement is not likely, your case will be reviewed only about once every five to seven years.

What Happens During a Review

After you get a letter announcing the review, someone from your Social Security office will contact you to explain the review process and your appeal rights. You will be asked to provide information about any medical treatment and work you might have done. Then your file will be sent to the state agency that makes disability decisions for Social Security. An evaluation team that includes a disability examiner and a doctor will carefully review your file and request your medical reports. If reports are not complete or current enough, you may be asked to have a special examination or test that the government will pay for.

Once a decision is reached, SSA will send you a letter explaining it. If SSA decides you are still disabled, your benefits will continue. If they decide you are no longer disabled, you can file an appeal (see below); otherwise, your benefits will stop three months after SSA determines that your disability has ended.

Work Incentives

Even after you start receiving disability benefits, you may want to try working again. Under this program, Social Security and Supplemental Security Income disability beneficiaries can get help with training and other services they need to go to work at no cost. Most beneficiaries will receive a “ticket” to take to a provider they choose who can offer the needed services. To learn more about this program, ask for Your Ticket To Work (Publication No. 05-10061).

For more information about helping you return to work, ask for Working While Disabled – How We Can Help (Publication No. 05-10095). A guide to all of SSA employment supports can be found in the Red Book, A Summary Guide to Employment Support for Individuals with Disabilities Under the Social Security Disability Insurance and Supplemental Security Income Programs (Publication No. 64-030).

“Substantial” Work

To understand how work affects your disability benefits, you must understand how Social Security measures your work. Disability benefits can only be paid if you are unable to do any “substantial” work, referred to as “Substantial Gainful Activity” (SGA) by the SSA. The amount of your earnings determine whether your work is substantial. The Substantial Gainful Activity (SGA) amount for persons with disabilities other than blindness is $1,470 per month in 2023. For persons who are blind, the amount of earnings that indicate SGA is $2,460 per month in 2023.

If you are self-employed, your disability is blindness, and you are age 55 or older, special rules apply.

Nine-Month Trial Work Period (TWP)

You can continue to receive benefits for up to nine months while you try to work. The months need not be consecutive, but they must occur within a 60-month period. Generally speaking, a “trial work” month is any month in which you earn over $1,050 in gross wages for 2023 or spend 80 hours in your own business (regardless of the amount of earnings). You will receive your full benefits during this period as long as you report your activity and remain disabled. If you recover during a trial work period, your benefits will stop after a three-month adjustment period.

At the end of nine months of trial work, SSA will decide if you are able to do “substantial” work. If you can, your benefits will stop after a three-month adjustment period. If you are not able to work, your payments will continue.

36-Month Extended Period of Eligibility (EPE)

If your benefits stop because you have returned to work even though you are still medically disabled, you receive special “benefit protection” for the next 36 months. During that time, you can receive a benefit for any month your earnings fall below $1,470 (SGA amount in 2023). You do not have to file a new application, but you do have to notify Social Security. If you are unable to continue working, your benefits continue indefinitely so long as you remain disabled.

Medicare Continues

If you are working even though you are still disabled, your Medicare coverage may continue for at least 39 months after the trial work period. Beyond that, you may purchase coverage with a monthly premium.

Help With Work Expenses

If you need certain equipment or services to help you work, the money you pay for them can be deducted from your earnings in deciding whether you are doing “substantial” work. It does not matter if you also need the items or services for daily living (such as a wheelchair).

The cost of medical equipment, certain attendant care services, prostheses, and similar items and services is generally deductible. The cost of drugs or medical services is deductible only if required because of your condition.

Vocational Rehabilitation

When you applied for disability benefits, information about you and your impairment may have been sent to the state vocational rehabilitation agency. If they offer you services and you refuse them (without good reason), your monthly benefits may be withheld. You should call them if you have not heard from them but are interested in receiving rehabilitation services.

Your disability benefits will continue while you receive rehabilitation services. Under a special rule, benefits can continue even if you medically recover while participating in an approved vocational rehabilitation or training program.

Benefits For Children and Students

If a child is getting checks on your account, you should know several important things about their benefits:

  1. When a child reaches age 18, the child’s benefits stop the month before age 18 unless the child remains unmarried and is either disabled or a full-time elementary or secondary school student.
  2. About five months before the child’s 18th birthday, the person receiving the child’s benefits will get a form explaining how benefits can continue.
  3. A child whose benefits stopped at 18 can have them started again if they become disabled before reaching 22 or becomes a full-time elementary or secondary school student before reaching 19.
  4. If a child is disabled, the child can continue to receive benefits after age 18 if they have a disability. The child also may qualify for SSI disability benefits.
  5. If a child at 18 is a student, they can receive benefits until age 19 if they continue to be full-time elementary or secondary school students. When a student’s 19th birthday occurs during a school term, benefits can be continued for up to two months to allow completion of the term.
  6. Social Security should be notified immediately if the student drops out of school, changes from full-time to part-time attendance are expelled or suspended, or changes schools. SSA should also be told if the student is paid by their employer for attending school.
  7. SSA sends each student a form at the start and end of the school year. It is important that the form be filled out and returned to SSA. Failure to return the form could result in a suspension of benefits.
  8. A student can keep receiving benefits during a vacation period of four months or less if they plan to return to school full-time at the end of the vacation.
  9. Generally, students who stop attending school can receive benefits again if they return to school full-time before age 19. The student needs to contact Social Security to reapply for benefits.
  10. Benefits for the child of someone getting disability benefits always end if the child marries. The must be reported right away.

Your Right To An Appeal

If you disagree with SSA’s decision, you can appeal it. You have 60 days to file a written appeal by mail or in person with any Social Security office. Generally, there are four levels to the appeals process. They are:

Reconsideration. Your claim is reviewed by someone who did not take part in the first decision.

Hearing Before an Administrative Law Judge. You can appear before a judge to present your case.

Review by Appeals Council. If the Appeals Council decides your case should be reviewed, it will either decide your case or return it to the administrative law judge for further review.

Federal District Court. If the Appeals Council decides not to review your case or disagree with its decision, you may file a civil lawsuit in a Federal District Court and continue your appeal to the U.S. Supreme Court if necessary.

If you disagree with the decision at one level, you have 60 days to appeal to the next level until you are satisfied with the decision or have completed the last level of appeal.

You have two special appeal rights when a decision is made that you are no longer disabled. They are:

Disability Hearing. As part of the reconsideration process, this hearing allows you to meet face-to-face with the person reconsidering your case to explain why you feel you are still disabled. You can submit new evidence or information and bring someone who knows about your disability. This special hearing does not replace your right to have a formal hearing before an administrative law judge (the second appeal step) if your reconsideration is denied.

Continuation of Benefits. While appealing your case, you can have your disability benefits and Medicare coverage (if you have it) continue until an administrative law judge decides. However, you must request the continuation of your benefits during the first ten (10) days of the 60 days mentioned earlier. If your appeal is unsuccessful, you may have to repay the benefits.


02 Aug 2024

Do you have enough disability insurance coverage? How can you get the most for your money to purchase private coverage? Have you neglected to protect what could be your most important financial asset? For many individuals, it’s not their home or portfolio – it’s earning power. This Financial Guide provides you with information to assist you in determining how much disability insurance you should have.

Even if your employer provides you with disability coverage, it’s vital to examine the terms and conditions of that coverage since it may not provide you with adequate coverage to meet your needs. For example, if you couldn’t work, how long could you continue to pay your bills? Chances are, whatever employer-provided and government-provided coverage you have is inadequate, and you need private disability coverage.


  • Planning For The Worst-Case Scenario
  • Employer-Provided Coverage
  • Governmental Coverage
  • What To Look For In A Private Policy
  • Be Ready To Prove Your Income Level
  • Watch Out For The “Definition Of Disability“
  • Waiting Period
  • How Long Will Coverage Last?
  • Residual Benefits
  • Non-Cancelable vs. Guaranteed Renewable
  • Riders And Options
  • Check Out Your Insurer
  • Premium-Reducing Tips
Planning For The Worst-Case Scenario

Many of us have life insurance; however, very few have long-term disability coverage. Yet according to statistics, workers are more likely to sustain a long-term disability (one lasting longer than 90 days) than dying early. Because long-term disability insurance is fairly expensive, people think workers’ compensation or other sources will protect them. However, Social Security, workers’ compensation, and employer-offered long-term coverage are often inadequate. For example, here is a typical disability scenario that could happen to anyone:

Roger Roberts, a former executive for a large company and currently self-employed as a consultant, earns $200,000 per year. Last year, his osteoarthritis suddenly worsened, and he could no longer bend his back, lift anything, or stand in one place for longer than a few minutes. Roger was forced to discontinue his consulting business and attempted various career changes, none of which panned out. Fortunately for Roger, he had taken out a disability policy years ago and had continued paying the $2,000 per year premiums. The policy will now pay him $20,000 per year in benefits – a badly needed income.

Employer-Provided Coverage

If your employer provides long-term disability coverage, which must usually be paid for by the employee, then it’s a good idea to buy it. The premiums are probably discounted from what you’d pay for a private policy.

However, look at what the employer-offered policy covers, and buy a private policy if you need it. Many employer-provided group policies are inadequate in that they limit either the term of the coverage or the amount of benefits paid. For instance, benefits may last only a few years, or benefit payments may represent only a small part of executive salaries. As such, check up on the following:

  • How long does the disability coverage last?
  • How much is the benefit?

Group plans may have a benefit cap of $5,000 per month. Individual plans may also have such a cap.

  • For what percentage of your income are you covered?

Generally, you cannot obtain insurance for more than 60 percent of your income.

  • Who pays the premiums?

Tax-wise, you’re better off paying the premiums yourself instead of having your employer pay them. Why? Because if you pay the premium for your disability benefits using after-tax dollars, your disability benefits are tax-free. On the other hand, if your employer pays the premiums using pre-tax dollars, your disability benefits are taxable.

  • If you receive bonuses or commissions, are these covered by the group policy? If not, bonuses or commissions make up a substantial part of your income, and you’ll probably need supplemental coverage.
  • What is the definition of disability in the group policy? Own occupation, any occupation, or income replacement? (Please see the discussion of these three terms in the section on private policies.)

Governmental Coverage

Worker’s compensation covers injuries that happen on the job, and the amount of benefits you receive are based on your average salary at the time of your injury. Benefits vary widely from state to state since benefit amounts depend on state provisions. Most states pay benefits for the employee’s lifetime in cases of permanent total disability.

To get details on worker’s comp benefits, contact your state’s Department of Labor.

Veterans whose disability is related to a service-related injury may be eligible for disability benefits in certain states. If you are a veteran, find out whether a disability fund exists in your state.

Social Security provides long-term disability coverage. However, more than half of the individuals who apply for Social Security disability are denied coverage, and the system leaves many gaps. Further, the average monthly payment in 2023, for example, was $1,470 and may not be adequate for many individuals.

Planning Aid: Standard And Poor’s Insurance Ratings allow you to find S & P ratings and financial strength ratings of various insurance companies.

What To Look For In A Private Policy

If you decide you need supplemental coverage, here are some things to look for in a private policy, as well as some suggestions for getting the most for your money.

Be Ready To Prove Your Income Level

A disability insurance company will usually not cover you for more than 66 2/3 percent of your income. Look for a policy that provides coverage for this level. When you shop for a disability policy, be ready to prove your income level.

Watch Out For The “Definition Of Disability“

The definition of disability in a policy is extremely important. It tells you under what circumstances you will qualify to receive benefits.

Own-occupation coverage pays benefits if you can’t work in your chosen field-e.g., attorney or teacher. Own-occupation policies are the most expensive type of disability coverage because they provide the broadest coverage. (If you cannot perform the duties of your occupation, you can take a job in a related field, make a decent income, and still collect the benefits.)

Any-occupation coverage pays benefits if you can’t work at any occupation for which your education level and training have prepared you. Thus, if you can no longer perform the duties of a nuclear physicist but can teach physics at the college level, you will not receive benefits.

Income-replacement policies, which are less expensive than own-occupation or any occupation, replace whatever portion of your income you are no longer able to earn.

Waiting Period

The longer the waiting period before benefits kick in, the less your premium will be. If you have adequate sick leave, short-term disability, and an emergency fund, and can support a longer waiting period, choose a policy with a longer waiting period. Waiting periods are typically 30 to 90 days long but can be as long as 26 weeks.

How Long Will Coverage Last?

It’s a good idea to get a benefit period that lasts until the age you start receiving Social Security payments. Be aware that many policies cover you for only two to five years, an inadequate period. Unless you are so young that you haven’t yet had time to qualify for Social Security, a policy that provides lifetime benefits at costly premiums is generally not worth it.

Residual Benefits

If you are able to work only part-time instead of your previous full-time hours, will you receive benefits? Unless your policy states that you are entitled to residual benefits, you won’t receive anything unless you are totally disabled and unable to work.

Residual benefits may be added on as a rider in some policies.

Non-Cancelable vs. Guaranteed Renewable

The difference between these two terms is very important. If a policy is “noncancellable,” you will pay a fixed premium throughout the contract term. Your premium will not go up for the term of the contract. If it is “guaranteed renewable,” your premiums could go up.

Riders And Options

Riders and options are additions to policies and cost extra.

Increasing Coverage

An option to increase coverage gives you the ability to buy more coverage without being turned down for health reasons. You will pay about 10 percent of your premium to have this option.

Cost-Of-Living

The cost-of-living rider, which can add 20 to 40 percent to your premium, pays you increased benefits after you become disabled.

Social Security

If you qualify for Social Security disability, the insurer gets to decrease your coverage.

Take this rider if it is available. It will save you money on your premium.

Waiver-of-Premium

This important rider allows you to stop paying premiums once you become disabled.

Weigh the cost of the waiver-of-premium rider against the cost of continuing to pay the premiums after disability.

Return-of-Premium

This option allows you some cash back if you do not collect on your disability coverage after a certain amount of time.

This rider is too expensive, generally about 50 percent of your premium. Don’t take it.

Check Out Your Insurer

Before buying a policy, check the financial soundness of your insurer. If your insurer goes bankrupt, you may have to shop for a policy later in life, when premiums are more expensive.

Premium-Reducing Tips

  • Try to get disability insurance on a low-load (commission) basis. Look at the policies offered by independent agents, but don’t buy insurance from an insurer that doesn’t check out as financially sound.
  • If you’re young, consider buying an annual renewable disability income policy similar to term life insurance. Then, when you are older and more able to afford the policy, convert it to a permanent policy.
  • Try to get group coverage from a trade association or other organization you belong to.
  • If you’re female, look for an insurer with unisex pricing. Otherwise, women will generally pay higher premiums.
  • Investigate discounts that may be available.


02 Aug 2024

The amount of money you spend for car insurance can vary dramatically depending on the insurance company you choose, the coverage you want and the kind of car you drive. Are you spending more than you need to on insurance premiums? This Financial Guide will help you get the most for your car insurance dollar.

All that is required to cut car insurance costs is a little of your time. Here are 10 cost-cutting suggestions for lowering your auto insurance costs.


  • 1. Comparison Shop
  • 2. Choose Your Coverage Carefully
  • 3. Consider Higher Deductibles
  • 4. Drop Collision And Comprehensive On Older Cars
  • 5. Buy A Low Profile Car
  • 6. Avoid Duplicate Medical Coverage
  • 7. Maximize Discounts
  • 8. Collect All Of The Benefits You’re Entitled To
  • 9. Use Car Repair Networks
  • 10. Drive Carefully And Take Your Car Key
  • Auto Information Checklist
  • Learn More
1. Comparison Shop

Do not assume that every insurance company charges the same rates. With several thousand different auto insurers competing for your dollar, you can save from 30 to 50 percent just by comparing costs. Costs are usually based on factors such as the age, gender, and driving record of the vehicle’s driver’s; the state of residence; the age and value of the vehicle; and the frequency and purpose of the vehicle’s use.

First, contact the insurance regulating body in your state and find out whether they provide a free pamphlet that ranks insurers by price. Many state insurance departments do this. Obtaining this pamphlet will save you a lot of time on the phone asking for price quotes. If no pamphlet is available, get quotes from independent agents (those who represent several insurance companies) and from “direct writers.” Direct writers sell directly to the public and not through agents. You may save about 10 percent because you are not covering an agent’s commission.

When calling an insurance company, ask if the insurer is a mutual company, i.e., one that is owned by its policyholders; if so, ask what percentage of its premiums are returned to policyholders. You may find, for example, that one company’s premiums are higher than those of some other companies, but that it pays annual dividends of 18 to 20 percent to policyholders, which reduce your insurance costs.

In addition to asking insurance agents and insurance companies, be sure to ask colleagues and friends about their carriers. You might also look on the Internet, review consumer guides, and check with your state insurance department.

Planning Aid: For independent advice on how to shop for car insurance and which companies offer lower rates, see Consumer Reports Online.

It is important not to neglect factors other than price. Although quality personal service may cost a bit more, it provides added conveniences, so talk to a number of insurers to get a feel for the quality of their service. Ask them how you can lower your costs.

Be sure to check the financial ratings of carriers. Check them out in a ratings service company such as Moody’s, and then supplement your review by calling your state insurance department for further information. Some state agencies will supply you with the number of justified complaints that have been made about insurers.

In some states, car owners with good driving records cannot be turned away by the insurance company of their choice. On the other hand, an insurance company can deny you coverage or charge you substantial premiums if you have a poor driving record.

2. Choose Your Coverage Carefully

Although certain minimum coverages are mandatory in most states, the amounts of such coverage vary among policies. Most coverages are discretionary, therefore, you should choose your coverage carefully to avoid being over insured, resulting in unnecessary premium costs. For those who are not familiar with auto insurance policies, all drivers are required to have the following basic coverages:

  • Liability – covers physical injuries to other people, including compensation for expenses that might arise from such injuries, and damage to other people’s property.
  • Comprehensive and collision – covers damage to your car due to collision or overturning, fire, flooding, or theft (there is usually a deductible).
  • Uninsured (or underinsured) motorist – covers the expenses of an accident if the other driver has insufficient insurance.
  • Medical – protects you against medical costs for injuries to you and other riders in the car.

In certain states with “no-fault” insurance laws, personal insurance protection coverage is required and there are some restrictions on liability lawsuits.

Your policy will show the total amounts of bodily injury, liability, and property damage coverage. For instance, a policy of $25/$50/$20 means that, in a single accident, you are covered for $25,000 for an individual injured, $50,000 for all persons injured, and $20,000 of property damage.

The amount of coverage you choose will depend on the state’s minimum requirements, the replacement cost of your vehicle, and how much medical coverage you already have under other policies.

3. Consider Higher Deductibles

It may pay to absorb the cost of fender-benders yourself. In other words, get the highest deductible you can afford. If you absorb the cost of small claims and the insurance company covers the large ones, it makes a huge difference in your premium. For example, raising your deductible from $100 to $500 will reduce your premiums by 10 to 20 percent and raising it to $1,000 will save 25 to 30 percent.

Do not file a claim for a minor accident. If the damage costs a couple of hundred dollars in repairs, pay for it yourself. The expense will be more than offset by the rise in your insurance rates that will occur when you file a claim.

4. Drop Collision And Comprehensive On Older Cars

You may wish to drop collision and/or comprehensive coverage on older cars. (Collision coverage takes care of the cost of repairing your car if you are in an accident, regardless of who’s at fault; comprehensive pays if your car is stolen or damaged by fire, flood, hail or wind.) If your car is not worth much, why pay a premium for repairs on a vehicle you will probably replace if it’s badly damaged? Collision damage for an older car can cost more than the car is worth.

Drop collision if your car is worth less than $2,000 or if your premium is equal to 10 percent or more of the value of your car. But remember that you generally can’t drop collision until your auto loan is paid off.

Check the value of your old car in the “National Automobile Dealers Association Official Used Car Guide,” known as “The Blue Book” (auto dealers, banks and libraries have copies) or on the Internet, a faster, more efficient procedure.

5. Buy A Low Profile Car

Before you buy a new or used car, check into insurance costs. Cars that are expensive to repair or that are favorite targets for thieves have much higher insurance costs.

Not surprisingly, the more expensive the car is, the more expensive the insurance will be. Cars that thieves love include Porsches, Jaguars, BMWs and sports models, and in general, they are more costly to insure. The latest study shows that it costs three to four times as much to insure a Porsche as a Ford. If you buy a used car, insurance will be significantly lower.

Related Guide: Please see the Financial Guide YOUR NEXT CAR: Should You Buy Or Lease?

Call your insurance company or agent before buying a car and ask about the costs for several different models.

6. Avoid Duplicate Medical Coverage

If you have an adequate comprehensive health insurance plan, you should consider dropping medical expense coverage from your auto insurance policy. This could lower your premium by up to 40 percent.

7. Maximize Discounts

Most insurance companies will reduce premiums 10 to 20 percent for some or all of these situations. However, you may have to bring up the subject with your agent.

  • Automatic seat belts and air bags
  • Anti-lock brakes
  • Insuring more than one car
  • No accidents in three years
  • No accidents ever
  • Drivers over 50 years of age
  • Driver training courses
  • Anti-theft devices
  • Good grades for students
  • Low mileage discounts
  • Insuring your home or apartment with the same company
  • College student living at least 100 miles away from home without a car on campus
  • Not smoking
  • Not drinking
  • Serving in the armed forces (past or present)
  • Carpooling
  • Ignition cutoff system and/or a hood or wheel-locking device
  • Being a doctor, lawyer, farmer, or member of a profession that the insurance company regards as a good risk
  • Being female and the only driver in the household
  • Renewing for longer than a year

8. Collect All Of The Benefits You’re Entitled To

Here are some tips for making sure that you obtain a fair settlement and obtain payment on a claim as quickly as possible.

  • Start a file on the accident immediately. Put into it hospital bills, police accident reports, and copies of claims you have submitted.
  • Where practical, write a follow up letter summarizing any phone conversations with an insurance company representative. Include the date of the conversation and the name of the person spoken to. Put a copy of the letter in the file.
  • If it is taking a long time to obtain your settlement, check your policy to see whether interim rental car expenses are covered. If so, rent a car. The insurer will be motivated to speed things along to avoid incurring this cost.
  • If you feel the company is being unreasonable-is delaying or not acting in good faith-make a complaint to your state’s insurance regulator.
  • If you are getting nowhere, and the claim is substantial, consider consulting an attorney.

9. Use Car Repair Networks

The Direct Repair Program, or DRP, is a type of “managed care” approach to getting your car repaired, available from many major insurers. The idea behind DRP’s is that they will save insurers money by cutting car rental periods for loaners, by eliminating the need for adjusters and by taking advantage of discounts on parts and labor. Some of these savings should be passed on to you. In some cases, insurers have been known to take up to 20 percent off premiums for collision/damage coverage.

Whether most people will save much with a DRP is unclear. However, if you have a busy schedule, the DRP’s advantage is that it will certainly save you time. In addition, it can take the stress out of filing a claim.

Insurers seldom advertise their DRP’s, so you will have to ask. Then get a list of repair shops near you. Skip the plan if you have to travel too far to an approved garage.

The DRP plan lets you choose between using a prescreened network of repair shops or your own mechanic. The repair shops participating in the network have already negotiated agreements with the insurance company. Use one of them and the insurance company will cover all costs except the deductible. Without this program, the old rules apply: you get the best estimate and then hope your insurer will pay.

The great advantage is that you do not have to shop for estimates because the garage is authorized by the insurer to do the repairs. Some even loan you a car while repairs are being done. And, because you do not have to wait for a claims adjuster, you will probably get your car back sooner. Sometimes the garage or the insurer also guarantees the repairs for as long as you own the car.

Before signing up for a DRP, get answers to these questions:

  • Will I get a break on my premiums or a lower deductible on collision?
  • Are eligible repair shops nearby?
  • What if I have an accident while traveling out of state?
  • For how long is the repair work guaranteed?
  • Will I get a free loaner while repairs are done?

10. Drive Carefully And Take Your Car Key

Finally, at the risk of being obvious, drive carefully. Accidents can greatly increase your premiums as well as cause the insurance company to refuse to renew (or, in serious cases, to cancel) your policy. And don’t forget to take your car key when leaving your car: a car is stolen every 19 seconds in the U.S. and over 20 percent have the key in the ignition.

Auto Information Checklist

When calling insurers to request price quotes, this checklist of information will come in handy.

Automobile Information
Year______________________
Manufacturer______________________
Model______________________
Body Style______________________
Vehicle ID No.______________________
City/State/Zip For Car’s Location______________________
Total miles driven per year______________________
Vehicle’s Use
Miles driving to & from work______________________
Miles driving to & from school______________________
Miles driving for business______________________
Miles driving for farming______________________
Driver Information (for each driver to be insured)
Name______________________
Relationship to Applicant______________________
Date of Birth______________________
Sex______________________
Marital Status______________________
Occupation______________________
Moving violation convictions in past three (3) years (be ready with details).______________________
Accidents in past three (3) years.______________________

Learn More

  • For free brochures on buying and insuring cars, contact:

The Insurance Information Institute
110 William Street
New York, NY 10038
Tel. 212-346-5500


02 Aug 2024

Maintaining adequate homeowner’s insurance is a vital part of owning a residence and your homeowner’s policy should be chosen carefully. This Financial Guide discusses the policy provisions to consider when deciding which homeowner’s insurance policy to buy to be sure that your home is adequately insured and that you are getting the most insurance value for your money.

This Financial Guide offers guidance about homeowner’s insurance such as what questions to ask your insurance broker or agent and how to find the best insurer for your needs. It also explains why you need to keep a list of personal possessions and provides a homeowner’s inventory sheet for you to use to make a list of your belongings, as well as offers useful tips on how to qualify for a discount and helps you purchase the policy that best fits your needs at an affordable price.


  • What Homeowner’s Insurance Generally Covers
  • Policy Coverage To Consider
  • Shopping For A Policy
  • Glossary
  • Inventory of Belongings
What Homeowner’s Insurance Generally Covers

It is equally important that renters maintain insurance. Many renters neglect to obtain insurance, perhaps deterred by cost or perhaps, or because, unlike homeowners, they are not required to maintain insurance. Studies show that about three-quarters of all those who rent a residence do not have renter’s insurance. Adequate replacement cost coverage and liability insurance can be obtained for about $200 per year–less if combined with an auto policy for instance since most insurers offer discounts for multiple policies.

Homeowner’s insurance is usually required by mortgage lenders

What’s Covered

Although exact coverage and policy limits vary, homeowner’s insurance usually covers damage caused by the following events or catastrophes:

  • Fire
  • Lightning
  • Explosion
  • Smoke
  • Vandalism
  • Theft, including check forgery and counterfeit currency
  • Unauthorized use of credit cards
  • Falling objects
  • Ice, snow, or sleet weighing on vehicles
  • Windstorm
  • Hail
  • Riot
  • Volcano
  • Freezing of plumbing
  • Flooding due to plumbing overflow
  • Hot water heater bursting
  • Heating system malfunction
  • Power surges

Basic coverage may also include food spoilage, lock replacement, temporary repairs, and removing debris. If these items are not initially included in your basic coverage, it is possible to have them added.

Planning Aid: For information about the standard types of homeowner’s policies, see Consumer’s Guide to Home Insurance in the publications section at the National Association of Insurance Commissioners’ website.

If you incur expenses for temporary living quarters because your home is rendered uninhabitable by an insured event/casualty, most policies will reimburse you in part for this so-called “loss of use.”

Earthquakes and sinkholes are not covered under standard policies; however, earthquake insurance can be purchased as an endorsement for an additional fee in all states except California. Flood insurance, which also includes mudflow, must also be purchased as a separate policy. It is only available National Flood Insurance Program run by the federal government. Other types of water damage such as overflows or backups from a sump pump, sewer system, or drains are also excluded and require a separate endorsement.

There is usually a deductible of $100 to $500 for personal property losses. Raising the deductible can lower the premium.

Actual Cash Value Or Replacement Cost

If you insure your belongings for their “actual cash value,” you will not get their replacement value at the time of a loss. Actual cash value refers to the value of your belongings after taking into account depreciation and wear and tear. this is also known as Fair Market Value (FMV). For instance, the actual cash value of a television you bought ten years ago may be worth only $50. On the other hand, “replacement cost” coverage provides you with the costs to replace your belongings. Thus, you would get the $500 you need to replace that ten-year-old television, not the $50 “actual cash value.”

Limits on Coverage

You choose the limits on the amounts of coverage on your home and personal property. The premium you pay depends on the limits you choose. Regardless of the policy limit, there is a separate limit on the replacement of high-value items, such as jewelry and artwork. If you want increased coverage for certain items, you must purchase an endorsement or floater (also known as a “rider”). You must generally pay extra for the following:

  • High-value items (e.g., jewelry, furs, silverware, weapons)
  • Personal computers and other home-office equipment
  • Waterbeds
  • Business operated in the home
  • Earthquake, flood, and hurricane (depending on location)

Policy Coverage To Consider

If your home is damaged or your possessions are stolen, will your homeowner’s policy pay as much as you are expecting? If you are willing to pay the premium for full protection, here are the policy coverages you might consider.

100 Percent of Rebuilding Costs

The amount of insurance that you buy should be based on the cost of rebuilding–not on the price of your home. The cost of rebuilding your house is usually higher than the price you originally paid for it, and often, even the price you could sell it for today. Most insurance companies recommend you insure your home for 100 percent of the cost of rebuilding it.

Your insurance agent or company representative may be able to help you calculate rebuilding costs. If not, you could hire an appraiser to do this. Real estate agents can provide you with the names of appraisers.

The cost of rebuilding is affected by local construction costs and by the type of house you have; however, the following are some of the factors that enter into the calculation:

  • The type of exterior wall construction such as wood frame, masonry (brick or stone) or veneer
  • The square footage of the structure
  • The style of the home, ranch or colonial, for example
  • The number of bathrooms and other rooms
  • The type of roof and materials used
  • Whether the home was custom built
  • Whether the home has an attached garage, a fireplace, exterior trim, or any special features such as arched or bay windows

For a rough estimate of the cost of rebuilding your house, calculate the square footage and multiply it by local building costs per square foot for your type of house. Ask a real estate agent or appraiser for average building costs in your area.

If you already have homeowner’s insurance, it’s very important to make sure that you have enough. If your home is one of the few that are totally destroyed, and it is insured for less than 100 percent of the rebuilding cost, you risk not having enough money to replace it with one of similar size and quality.

Make sure your insurance agent or broker knows about any improvements or additions to your house that have been made since you last discussed your insurance policy. If you haven’t increased your policy limits to cover the cost of rebuilding that new deck, a second bathroom, or other improvements that have increased the value of your home, then you risk being under-insured. If you lack sufficient insurance, your insurer may pay only a part of the cost of replacing or repairing damaged items–depending on the kind of policy you have.

Look at your policy to see what the maximum amount that your insurance company would pay if your house was damaged and had to be rebuilt. The limits of the policy usually appear on the Declarations Page under Section 1, Coverage A Dwelling. Your insurance company will pay no more than this amount to rebuild your home–no exceptions.

Some banks require that you buy homeowner’s insurance to cover the amount of your mortgage. However, if the limit of your insurance policy is based only on your mortgage, your policy is unlikely to cover the cost of rebuilding. Make certain that the value of your insurance policy keeps up with increases in local building costs.

If the limits of your policy have not changed since you bought your home, it is likely that you are under-insured.

Ask your agent about adding an “inflation guard clause,” which automatically adjusts the limit to reflect current construction costs when you renew your policy.

Replacement Cost

Consider buying replacement cost coverage for structural damage. A replacement cost policy will pay for the repair or replacement of damaged property with materials of similar kind and quality. The insurance company will not deduct for depreciation. Depreciation is the decrease in value due to age, wear and tear, and other factors.

If you own an older home, you may not be able to buy a replacement cost policy. Instead, you might buy a modified replacement cost policy that will pay for repairs using standard building materials and construction techniques in use today, rather than repairing or replacing features typical of older homes, like plaster walls and wooden doors, with similar materials.

Insurance companies differ greatly in the way they insure older homes. Some refuse to insure older homes for 100 percent of replacement cost because of the expense of re-creating special features like wall and ceiling moldings and carvings. Other companies will insure older homes for 100 percent of replacement cost as long as the dwelling is in good condition.

If you cannot insure your home for 100 percent of replacement cost–or choose not to do so–because the cost of replacing a large old home is prohibitive, then make sure the limits of the policy are high enough to provide you with a house of acceptable size and quality.

Guaranteed Replacement Cost Insurance

A guaranteed replacement cost policy will pay whatever it costs to rebuild your home as it was before the fire or another disaster, even if it exceeds the policy limit. This policy protects you against sudden increases in construction costs due to a shortage of building materials, for example, or other unexpected situations, but generally, does not cover the cost of upgrading the house to comply with building codes.

Building codes require structures to be built to minimum standards. If your home is severely damaged, there may be an extra cost in rebuilding it to comply with standards enacted since the home was built. Complying with building code may require a change in design or building materials. Generally, homeowner’s insurance policies will not pay for this extra expense, but some insurers offer an endorsement (a form attached to an insurance policy that changes what the policy covers) that pays a specified amount toward these costs.

A guaranteed replacement cost policy may not be available if you own an older home.

Flood Insurance

If your home is located in an area prone to flooding, contact your insurance agent or the National Flood Insurance Program (800-427-4661).

Your homeowner’s insurance policy does not cover flood damage. If you buy a federal government flood insurance policy, consider insuring your home for 100 percent of replacement cost and buying insurance to cover the contents of your home as well as the dwelling.

Contents Insurance

This list should include everything you and other members of your household own in your home and in other buildings on the property, except your car and certain boats, which must be insured separately. Among the items you should include are indoor and outdoor furniture, appliances, stereos, computers and other electronic equipment, hobby materials and recreational equipment, china, linens, silverware and kitchen equipment, and jewelry, clothing and other personal belongings.

Estimate the value of your personal possessions at current prices and not what you paid for it. The total is the amount of insurance you would need to replace the contents of your home with new items if everything was destroyed.

Check your homeowner’s policy to find out how much insurance you have for the contents of your home. The limit of the policy is shown on the Declarations Page under Section 1, Coverage, Personal Property. The contents limit generally is 50 percent of the amount of insurance on the dwelling. For example, on a home insured for $100,000 the contents would be limited to $50,000. Now compare the contents limit with the total value of the items on your list of personal possessions. If you think you are under-insured, give your insurance agent or broker a call.

As discussed before, there are two ways of insuring your personal possessions. If you have a homeowner’s insurance policy, find out whether claim payments for damage to your personal property would be based on replacement cost or actual cash value. Check your policy under Section 1, Conditions, Loss Settlement or ask your agent. As with insurance for the structure, a replacement cost policy pays the dollar amount needed to replace a damaged item with one of similar kind and quality without deductions for depreciation. An actual cash value policy pays the amount needed to replace the item minus depreciation.

Special Limits

Check the limits on certain kinds of personal possessions, such as jewelry, art, silverware, and furs. This information is in Section 1, Personal Property, Special Limits of Liability. Some insurance companies also place a limit on what they’ll pay for computers and other home office equipment. If the limits are too low, consider buying a special personal property endorsement or rider.

An endorsement is an addition to your policy. A floater is a form of insurance that allows you to insure valuable items separately. Under a rider or floater, you will be able to insure these items for higher amounts than under a standard homeowner’s policy.

If you have a claim, the more information you have about the damaged items–a description of each and the date of purchase and purchase price–the faster the claim can usually be settled.

Videotape or take photographs of rooms and their contents. Note where and when you bought each item and the price. Write down the brand names and model numbers of appliances and electronic equipment. Add new items as you buy them, and keep receipts with the list.

Store the list, photos, and other records in a safe place outside the home in a bank deposit box or with a neighbor or relative so that they are not destroyed if your home is damaged.

Shopping For A Policy

The price you pay for homeowner’s insurance can vary by hundreds of dollars, depending on the insurance company. Companies offer several types of discounts, but they do not offer the same discount or the same amount of discount in all states. Here are some things to consider when buying homeowner’s insurance:

Shop Around

Although it may take a few phone calls to shop around for the best insurance, you could save a few hundred dollars by taking the time to do so. Conduct a preliminary search by compiling a list of possible insurers. Check with your insurance broker or agent, ask your friends, check the Yellow Pages, search online, check consumer guides, and/or call your state insurance department. A thorough investigation of available insurers will give you an idea of price ranges and tell you which companies or agents have the lowest prices.

Do not consider price alone. The insurer you select should offer both a fair price, good coverage and excellent service. Quality service may cost a bit more, but it provides added conveniences. Talking to insurers will give you a feel for the type of service they offer.

When talking to insurers, ask them what they would do to lower your costs. Once you’ve narrowed your search to three companies, get price quotes.

Raise Your Deductibles

Deductibles on homeowners’ policies typically start at $250. You might save up to 12 percent of the premium by increasing your deductible to $500, up to 24 percent by increasing it to $1,000, up to 30 percent by going up to $2,500, and 37 percent by raising it to $5,000.

Considering Buying Home And Auto Policies From the Same Insurer

Many companies that sell homeowner’s, auto and liability coverage will take 5 to 15 percent off your premium if you buy two or more policies from them. This is called a multiple policy discount.

Consider Insurance Cost Before Buying A Home

When buying a home, don’t overlook the insurance costs. These may affect the price you are willing to pay for the home. Among the factors to consider:

  • The home’s construction in relation to the geographical region. For example, brick houses may result in less costly premiums in the East whereas frame houses are less costly in the West. Choosing wisely could cut your premium by 5 to 15 percent.
  • Whether the area is prone to floods (if so, you will have to pay additional money for an endorsement). Visit FEMA’s National Flood Insurance Program (NFIP) to determine your flood risk and find out whether you are in a flood zone.
  • Whether the home is new or used (insurers may offer you a discount of 8 to 15 percent for a new home).
  • The electrical system, plumbing, and structure.
  • Whether the town has full-time or volunteer fire service and whether the home is close to a hydrant or fire station (the closer it is, the lower your premium will be).

Don’t Insure Land

When deciding how much homeowner’s insurance to buy, do not include the value of the land under your house. If it is not at risk of theft, windstorm, fire, or other disasters, then why pay for wasted coverage?

Increase Home Security

You can usually get discounts of at least 5 percent for a smoke detector, burglar alarm, or dead-bolt locks. Some companies offer to cut your premium by as much as 15 or 20 percent if you install a sophisticated sprinkler system and a fire and burglar alarm that rings at the police station or another monitoring facility. Although these discounts are incentives to invest in home security and yard maintenance systems, be aware that these systems are not inexpensive and that not every system qualifies for the discount.

Before you buy an alarm system, find out what kind your insurer recommends and how much you’d save on premiums.

No Smoking Discounts

Insurers may offer lower premiums if all the residents in a house do not smoke.

Senior Discounts

If you are at least 55 years old and retired, you may qualify for a discount of up to 10 percent at some insurers.

Investigate Group Coverage

Employers, alumni, and business associations can often benefit from an insurance package at competitive rates. Ask your company’s human resources department or your association’s director if such a package is available.

Stay With the Same Insurer

If you’ve kept your coverage with one company for several years, you may get a reduction in your premiums of 5 or 10 percent, depending on the insurer.

Check Your Policy Once A Year

Compare the limits in your policy with the value of your possessions at least once a year to make sure your policy covers major purchases and/or additions to your home.

On the other hand, you do not want to spend money for unnecessary coverage. If your five-year-old fur coat is no longer worth the $20,000 you paid for it, reduce your rider and cut your premium.

Look For Private Insurance First

If you live in a high-risk area, that is, one that is vulnerable to coastal storms, fires, or crime, and have been buying your homeowner’s insurance through a government plan, you may find that there are steps you can take to buy insurance at a lower price in the private market. Check with your insurance agent or broker.

* * * *

To be sure you have adequate homeowner’s insurance, ask your insurance agent questions about the issues discussed in this Financial Guide. A thorough inquiry into specific coverage and costs should result in a policy that offers the best coverage and value. It is also important to ask your agent or broker to explain what factors were used to calculate the policy limits for the dwelling.

Planning Aid: National Flood Insurance Program provides information about National Flood Insurance.

If you have a problem or need more information, contact the Consumer Federation of America (CFA) Insurance Group.

Glossary

For your convenience, several common insurance terms are defined below:

Actual Cash Value. The current value of property measured in cash arrived at by taking the replacement cost and deducting for depreciation brought about by physical wear and tear, age and other factors.

Endorsement. A written form attached to a policy that alters the policy’s coverage, terms or conditions.

Floater. A policy or endorsement that applies to moveable property whatever its location. The coverage floats or moves with the property.

Guaranteed Replacement Cost Insurance. Insurance providing for payment of the cost of replacing the damaged property without deduction for depreciation and without a dollar limit

Inflation Guard Clause Provision. In a policy or endorsement that automatically adjusts the dwelling limit at policy renewal time to reflect current construction costs in your area.

Replacement Cost Dwelling Insurance. Insurance providing that the policyholder will be paid the cost of replacing the damaged property without deduction for depreciation, but limited by the dollar amount displayed under Section 1, Coverage, A. Dwelling on the Declarations Page of the policy.

Replacement Cost Contents Insurance. Insurance that pays the dollar amount needed to replace damaged personal property with that of similar kind and quality without deducting for depreciation.

Inventory of Belongings

Use this form to document and determine whether your personal property coverage is adequate. Go through each room and inventory your belongings. Write in the year you bought the item and how much you paid for it. Then write in the approximate cost to replace the item today. Finally, calculate the totals at the end of the form. This list will also help in case you need to submit a claim.

Make a photographic or video record of your belongings, too, and of the outside of your home. This will help should you ever need to submit a claim.

KITCHEN & DINING ROOMYear of PurchaseCostReplacement Cost
Table, chairs
Hutch, sideboard
Large appliances (list)
Small appliances (list)
Microwave
Dishes, two sets
Silverware, flatware
Glasses
Linens
Other
TOTAL ESTIMATED REPLACEMENT COST
LIVING ROOMYear of PurchaseCostReplacement Cost
TV, VCRs, DVD Players and other electronics
Stereo
Sofas
Chairs
Tables
Cabinets
Books
Book shelves
CDs, videos, tapes, albums
Artwork
Collections
Curtains
Carpeting, rugs
Lighting
Other
TOTAL ESTIMATED REPLACEMENT COST
BEDROOMSYear of PurchaseCostReplacement Cost
TVs, VCRs, radios, stereos, and other electronics
Bedding, sheets
Furniture
Lighting
Personal Computers
Carpets
Overcoats
Formal Wear
Shoes
Sweaters
Jackets
Dresses
Accessories
Suits
Jewelry
Curtains
TOTAL ESTIMATED REPLACEMENT COST
Sports, Hobbies, Bathroom, MiscellaneousYear of PurchaseCostReplacement Cost
Towels
Grooming gear
Bathroom appliances
Golf clubs
Bicycles
Guns
Cameras
Ski gear
Camping equipment
Exercise equipment
Telephones, answering machines
Fans, heaters, air conditioners
Luggage
Desk, chairs
Piano, musical instruments
Sewing machine
Lawn mower
Garden tools
Office equipment
Computers
TOTAL ESTIMATED REPLACEMENT COST
TOTAL OF ALL CATEGORIES


02 Aug 2024

Don’t Just Look At Numbers; What’s Your Gut Telling You?

It’s not hard to find advice on how to manage your money these days. You can find plenty of it on the Internet, in books, magazines and newspapers, from well-meaning friends and relatives, and of course, from professional advisors.

But while finding financial guidance is easy, judging the worth of it can be a much tougher task. Even hiring a professional adviser is no guarantee you’ll get great advice. If you’re paying someone for a personalized plan, though, you especially want to make sure you’re getting your money’s worth.

The true test is whether you reach your goals. But if your goal is decades away – retirement, for example – you don’t want to wait until age 65 to see if you made the right moves.

An annual review of your overall financial situation is the best way to assess the quality of the service you’re getting.

So what things should you look at? Ask yourself these questions when gauging money advice:

What are the numbers? The most obvious way to judge investment advice is by performance. But make sure your expectations are realistic.

If you have a diversified portfolio, you’re going to outperform the worst asset class but under perform the best. With that in mind, don’t look at just your pure rate of return. You don’t have to be in the year’s highest flying mutual funds and stocks to succeed.

Instead, you and your advisor should quantify your goals when creating your financial plan.

That plan should include periodic, realistic mileposts to check your progress against. If your net worth isn’t growing as fast as you’d forecast, examine why. Maybe it was just a down year in the market. Or maybe you’ve been too cautions with your investments and need to make a change.

What does your gut say? Can you stomach the investment risk they’re taking?

The real key is to remain invested.

Remember, some discomfort is normal. You’re not going to gain anything without taking risks. But if you’re so nervous about the risk you’re taking that you cannot stay invested, you need to talk to your advisor. If you’re always buying at the top and selling at the bottom, you won’t build wealth.

You also should pay attention if your gut feeling is telling you that your advisor isn’t being honest with you.

If it doesn’t feel right, it probably isn’t. If your advisor doesn’t listen to you, doesn’t return your phone calls, does some kind of trading in your account that you didn’t know about, you need to raise your hand and say something.

Have you been following the advice?

If you haven’t put your plan into practice, what’s stopping you? If it is because the suggestions are too complex, and you don’t understand them or they make you uncomfortable, talk to your advisor.

Why pay for counsel you’re not going to use? If your planner won’t listen, you may need to hire someone else.

Is the advice clear to you?

I really believe that the way an advisor speaks to a client is very important. Sometimes people who aren’t confident about something use lingo to make themselves appear to be an expert.

Also, it’s crucial for you to understand the money moves you are making – and why you’re making them.

Is your financial advisor a good listener?

Responsiveness is key. Many people have questions. Are you getting good answers to those questions?

If your accountant says: “‘Don’t worry about those details. Just trust me,” consider looking for a new one. You should feel comfortable enough with your advisor to ask questions and are entitled to understand what he or she is doing.


02 Aug 2024

When seeking legal aid, as in purchasing any product or service, it’s important to be a smart consumer: to be well informed and to know exactly what you are getting for your money. This Financial Guide discusses how to find an attorney who will provide cost-effective help with your legal problems.

This Financial Guide gives you a roadmap to the process of finding a good lawyer and making sure that the legal services you are getting are cost-effective. Before hiring an attorney, take the following steps.


  • Step 1: Decide Whether You Need A Lawyer
  • Step 2: Get Some Names
  • Step 3: Start Asking Questions
  • Step 4: Interview The Candidates
  • Step 5: Make Your Decision
  • Step 6: Clarify Fee Arrangements and Similar Issues
  • Step 7: Define Your Relationship And Stay Involved
  • Step 8: Elder Law
  • Step 9: Legal HotLines
  • Step 10: Other Free Or Low-Cost Services
Step 1: Decide Whether You Need A Lawyer

You hire a lawyer to help you resolve disputes, engage in legal transactions, or assert your legal rights. For certain legally complex or time-consuming disputes or problems, there is no doubt that a lawyer is necessary. For example, if you want a will prepared, or a more complex business deal handled, you will need a lawyer. If a court case is involved (other than a simple, routine matter), you’ll almost always need a lawyer. There may, however, be ways to resolve a problem or dispute without the specialized assistance of a lawyer.

In deciding whether to hire a lawyer, consider the following:

  • Does the matter involve a complex legal issue, or is it likely to go to court? These two factors indicate you need a lawyer.
  • Is a form or self-help book available that you can use instead of hiring a lawyer? You may be able to solve certain problems with no legal help or with only minimal assistance.
  • Is a large amount of money, property, or time involved? These factors indicate that you probably you need a lawyer.
  • Are there any non-lawyer legal resources available to assist you such as mediation, arbitration, or small claims court?

Mediation or Arbitration

Dispute resolution centers, located in just about every state throughout the US are used to resolve problems in the areas of consumer complaints, landlord/tenant disputes, and disagreements between neighbors or family members. The names, services, and fees (if any) of the centers vary from place to place, but they generally use two methods to resolve problems: mediation and arbitration. Mediation involves a neutral person who assists the two sides to discuss their differences and possibly reach an agreement. In arbitration, the neutral third party conducts a more formal process and makes a decision (usually written) after listening to both sides.

If both parties can agree to it, using a dispute resolution center or a private mediation center can be a low-cost alternative to bringing a suit in court or hiring an attorney to represent you in a negotiation. In some areas, the court itself may refer certain types of cases to a mediation program.

Small Claims Court

Small claims court may be appropriate if you have a monetary claim for damages within the limits set by your state (usually $1,000 to $5,000). These courts are more informal and involve less paperwork than regular courts. The filing costs are low and the system is faster than the regular court system. If you file in small claims court, be prepared to act as your own attorney, gather the needed evidence, research the law, and present your story in court.

Are you willing to collect information and do research on your own? Is there a time limit on when you must file suit? Ask the small claims court clerk or look it up in your local law library. You must file your case before this time limit (usually within a year). Are you able to prove that the person against whom you are making the claim owes you money? You must be able to prove legal liability and that you have suffered a financial loss as the result of someone else’s action.

In deciding whether to use small claims court, check the many “how-to” books in the library for general information. Check with the clerk of small claims court, local consumer agency, or legal aid office for more information in your area.

Step 2: Get Some Names

Once you have decided you need a lawyer, it’s time to begin shopping around. The first step is to compile a list of names. The recommendation of someone whose judgment you trust is an excellent place to start your search. You may want to begin by asking relatives, friends, clergy, social workers, or your doctor for recommendations. Often those persons can refer you to someone who has provided similar legal services for them. You need to know more about the lawyer than simply that he or she is a good attorney. Ask those making the recommendation for specific information about the type of legal help the lawyer provided them and how their case was handled.

Bar Association Referral Lists

Many state and local bar associations maintain lawyer referral lists by specialty. A referral service will provide you with the name of an attorney who specializes in the area you need. Keep in mind, however, that a referral is not a recommendation and does not guarantee a level of experience. Bar associations may charge participating lawyers and law firms a fee to be included on the referral list.

Caution: Many bar associations have committees that conduct training or public service work in specialized areas. An attorney serving on one of these committees could have the expertise you are looking for.

Tip: If you use a referral service, ask how attorneys are chosen to be listed with that particular service. Many services make referrals to all lawyers who are members (regardless of type and level of experience) of a particular organization.

Other Resources

Two of the larger lawyer directories are probably available at your local library. Martindale-Hubbell online lists profiles for over one million lawyers and firms in the United States, Canada, and 160 other countries, alphabetically by state and by categories. Each entry has a biography, with information on each lawyer’s education, specialty, law firm, and the date of admittance to the bar. It also includes a “rating” based on information supplied by fellow lawyers. The Who’s Who in American Law directory lists about 24,000 lawyers and includes biographical notes. However, this directory is somewhat difficult to use because the lawyers are listed alphabetically rather than by state or specific area of expertise.

Many communities also have other lawyer referral services to assist people in finding a lawyer. Often the services are for specific groups such as persons with disabilities, older persons, or victims of domestic violence. Groups that may be good sources for a local referral include the Alzheimer’s Association and other support groups for specific diseases, such as Children of Aging Parents, the Older Women’s League, the state civil liberties union, a local social services agency, or the local agency on aging.

Other referral services may be financed by a few lawyers who receive all the referrals. Some services may screen the lawyers who wish to have referrals in a particular area.

Lawyers are permitted to advertise within specific guidelines. You will be able to gather some useful information from ads. However, as with any advertisement, take everything with a grain of salt.

Many attorneys specializing in areas of the law in which there may be substantial fees–such as personal injury or medical malpractice–advertise free consultations. Advertisements may list a set fee for a particular type of case. Many attorneys who do not advertise may also provide free consultations or offer set fees for a certain legal problem.

Caution: Keep in mind that set fees are usually for routine, uncomplicated cases. Your case may not be regarded as simple.

In addition, the court and your banker may be good referral sources. Finally, the yellow pages of the telephone book often list lawyers according to their specialties.

Step 3: Start Asking Questions

To start the process of hiring a lawyer, call several lawyers to whom you have been referred or about whom you have heard. Ask them the preliminary questions listed below before committing yourself to a consultation. The answers you get will help you choose the two or three lawyers you wish to interview.

Since this is only a preliminary telephone conversation, ask questions that can be answered briefly. Here are some questions to ask:

  • Will you provide a free consultation for the initial interview?
  • How long have you been in practice?
  • What percentage of your cases are similar to my type of legal problem? (A lawyer with experience in handling cases like yours will be more efficient, which may save you money.)
  • Can you provide me with any references, such as trust officers in banks, other attorneys, or clients?
  • Do you represent any clients or special-interest groups that might cause a conflict of interest?
  • What type of fee arrangement do you require? Are the fees negotiable?
  • What type of information should I bring with me to the initial consultation?

Follow up your phone calls by scheduling interviews with at least two of the attorneys. Don’t feel embarrassed about selecting only the best candidates or canceling appointments with some of the attorneys after you complete all of your exploratory calls.

Step 4: Interview The Candidates

A personal interview is absolutely necessary. Whether you want a lawyer for a single transaction or over a period of years, you will be sharing details of your life and relying upon this person’s expertise and advice. Since the lawyer will act on your behalf, it is critical that you feel comfortable with your attorney and that your will function in an atmosphere of mutual respect. A personal interview is the best way to make this judgment.

Come prepared with a brief summary of your immediate case (including dates and facts) as well as a list of general questions for the attorney.

The purpose of the interview is twofold: (1) to decide if the attorney has the necessary experience and is available to take your case; and, (2) to decide if you are comfortable with the fee arrangement and, most importantly, comfortable working with the attorney.

Since this an initial consultation, it may not be a lengthy one. Be concise and approach the interview in a businesslike manner. Be prepared to take notes, to listen carefully to the attorney, and to make observations about the office and how it is run.

Bring to the interview:

  • A brief, written summary of your case
  • A list of questions for the attorney
  • Cards or a small notebook
  • A pen/pencil for notes
  • Copies of any notices you have received

In addition to any unanswered questions from the telephone calls, you may want to consider asking the following questions:

  • How long has this attorney worked on cases like yours?
  • Based on your brief description of the problem, ask about the range of outcomes you could expect (rough estimate of the length of time, cost for legal services, and size of the award if any). Ask if the case is likely to be settled or will it go to trial.

Caution: Many factors affect how a case is decided. If the attorney gives you an ironclad promise that you will win, a red flag should go up.

  • Ask for an opinion of the strengths and weaknesses of a case like yours. This should be based on your lawyer’s experience with similar cases.
  • Ask who will be working on your case. Will this attorney be doing all of the research, case preparation, negotiation, and court work, or will associates or non-attorney advocates be handling parts of it? What are the experience and expertise of these other advocates? Will other experts, including other attorneys, be consulted? If so, who will they be? If others will work on the case, what will the fee arrangement be? (These questions are particularly important to ask of attorneys practicing in large law firms where work is often delegated to associates and/or paralegals.)
  • Ask about fees and expenses. These are not the same. An attorney’s fee is the payment you make for the attorney’s time. Expenses refer to a variety of other costs including witness fees, court filing fees, copying, messenger service, etc. (See the question on fees below.)
  • Ask if the attorney will work out a written fee agreement with you. (The specifics of the arrangement should be in writing.)
  • Ask how often the attorney will bill you; is a retainer required?
  • Decide what type of involvement in the case you want. Ask if the attorney is comfortable with that level of involvement. (See the questions below on client involvement and cutting costs.)
  • Find out what hours the attorney will be available for meetings. This may be particularly important if you must leave work to meet with the attorney. Will you meet in the evening or on weekends? Will the attorney visit your home, if needed?

Observe how the attorney responds to your questions. Does he or she seem organized (take notes, etc.)? Respond openly and directly to your questions? Provide you with written background material on the topics of interest to you? Provide clear explanations?

Observe the physical surroundings and office staff. Is the staff friendly? Are they responsive? Do people identify themselves on the telephone so you know to whom you are speaking? Does anyone explain the roles of people with whom you may be dealing? Is the pace frenetic, lackadaisical, or busy in an organized fashion?

Observe your attorney during the preliminary interview to see whether he or she fits the bill:

  • Neatness counts. Does the attorney appear neat and clean?
  • Timeliness. You should not be kept waiting for your appointment.
  • Focus. Does the attorney leave the room frequently during your appointment? Does he or she take phone calls? You should be getting his complete attention. Does the attorney listen attentively, or does he or she appear bored or distracted, or glance at his or her watch?
  • Openness about fees. An attorney who does not discuss fee arrangements up front may be more likely to surprise you with large, unexpected bills. The fee should be discussed at the first interview.

Step 5: Make Your Decision

After the interviews, review your notes. Look at the strengths and weaknesses of each attorney you interviewed. Decide what is most important to you. Factors to consider in choosing an attorney include:

  • Cost. Cost is rarely the only deciding factor unless it is a simple case which will take little time and that is the only contact you plan to have with the attorney. However, it is critical that you feel comfortable and knowledgeable about the financial arrangement. Disputes over fees are one of the most common conflicts between clients and attorneys.
  • Experience. Does the attorney have the necessary experience for the case you have? For a simple will, a relatively new attorney may be a cost-effective choice. However, for a complex estate plan, you need someone with more experience. The higher fee is likely to be balanced by not having to pay for the attorney to learn on the job.
  • Availability. Can the attorney accept the case immediately? Will the attorney be able to devote the time you want to the case? This is particularly important if you prefer a lot of interaction with your attorney.
  • Your Comfort Level/Mutual Respect. It is important not to choose an attorney simply because you are impressed by the firm’s reputation. You should be satisfied with the expertise of the people actually working on your case. Will you trust them enough to tell them private matters relevant to the case that you may not have shared with others? Do you believe the attorney treats your ideas and opinions with respect?

Step 6: Clarify Fee Arrangements and Similar Issues

Fees are one of the least discussed parts of any legal case, yet are highly important to both client and lawyer. Frequently fees are not discussed early enough, candidly enough, or in enough detail. Why? Generally, the discussion can be uncomfortable for both parties. However, becoming knowledgeable about the types of fee arrangements can increase your comfort level in dealing with this crucial part of hiring an attorney.

Tip: Remember: The specifics of a fee arrangement should be in writing.

The market rate for any given legal service varies by locality. A “fair” fee is what seems fair to you, based on your knowledge of going rates. Whether you are comfortable with a fee is likely to be based on the following factors:

  • How much you can afford
  • Whether the case is routine or requires special expertise
  • The range of attorney rates for this type of case in your area

The fee arrangement you make with your lawyer will significant affect how much you will pay for the services.

Types Of Fee Arrangements

Here are several common types of fee arrangements used by lawyers:

Flat fee. The lawyer will charge you a specific total fee for your case. A flat fee is usually offered only if your case is relatively simple or routine.

Tip: Ask if photocopying, typing, and other out-of-pocket expenses are covered by this flat fee. Often the total bill is the flat fee plus these out-of-pocket expenses.

Hourly rate. The attorney will charge you for each hour (or a portion of an hour) that he or she works on your case. If your attorney’s fee is $100 per hour, and he or she works ten hours, the cost will be $1,000. Some attorneys charge a higher rate for court work and less per hour for research or case preparation.

Tip: If you agree to an hourly rate, be sure to find out how much experience your attorney has had with your type of case. A less experienced attorney will usually require more time to research your case, although he or she may charge a lower hourly rate.

Large law firms usually charge more than small law firms and urban attorneys often charge more per hour than attorneys practicing in rural areas.

Tip: Ask what is included in the hourly rate. If other staff such as secretaries, messengers, paralegals, and law clerks will be working on your case, find out how their time will be charged to you. Ask about costs and out-of-pocket expenses, which are usually billed in addition to the hourly rate.

Contingency fee. Under this arrangement, the attorney’s fee is based on a percentage of what you are awarded in the case. If you lose the case, the attorney does not get a fee, although you will still have to pay expenses. The contingency fee percentage varies and some lawyers offer a sliding scale based on how far along the case is when it is settled. A one-third fee is common.

A contingency fee is usually found in personal injury cases, accidental claims, property damage cases, or other cases where a large amount of money is involved.

Referral fee. On occasion, an attorney who has accepted your case may refer you to another attorney who specializes in the area you need. Sometimes the first attorney will ask for a portion of the total fee you pay for the case. This “referral fee” may be prohibited under state codes of professional responsibility unless certain rules are followed. The rules usually include a requirement that client fees be split only if each attorney does some work, the client knows about the arrangement, and the total fee is reasonable.

Suggestions for Ensuring Cost Effectiveness

It is important to remember that a lawyer’s fees are often negotiable. Your lawyer is unlikely to invite you to bargain over fees, and you may not want to bring the subject up. Keep in mind, however, that there are some situations in which attorneys are more likely to consider a lower fee. If your case is interesting, unique, or extremely lucrative, an attorney may be willing to negotiate. If the firm is actively seeking more work or is new to your locality, it may handle a case for less as a way to build its caseload.

There are two general situations in which you may wish to raise the issue of lower fees. First, if your case has the possibility of significant attorney’s fees, you are in a stronger position if you are willing to shop around and to negotiate. It’s wise to negotiate, for example, in personal injury cases. Most lawyers will propose a standard contingency fee for one-third of any damages that they win for you, nothing if they lose.

Tip: The contingency fee is designed to cover the risk the lawyer is taking; yet some experts estimate that at least one out of every five contingency fee cases involves virtually no risk.

It makes sense to sit down with several different lawyers before choosing one. Ask each to assess the merits of the case and the likelihood that you will receive money if you are successful. The consultations will be free and you will come away with a more realistic sense of what fee arrangements you should agree to. Generally, the higher the likelihood of success in a case, the lower the contingency percentage you may be able to negotiate. Some clients also prefer to pay their lawyers on a sliding scale, for example, 33 percent for the first $100,000 in damages, 25 percent for the next $100,000, and 15 percent above that.

You may be able to negotiate other arrangements that will save you money, including flat fees instead of hourly charges, hourly rates up to a prearranged maximum for the entire project, and fees based partly on the outcome.

Comparison Shop for Flat Fees on Simple Cases

When you need a simple transaction like a will, a real estate closing, or a power of attorney, you can comparison shop. Contracting for legal services is like any other consumer transaction in that the prices and the work product vary. Call several attorneys and compare their answers to the questions listed above. Only after you get a sense of the range of fees will you be able to determine which rate and which attorney best suit you and your budget.

Ask About Billing Method for Hourly Rates

A written agreement specifying the fee arrangement and the work involved is the best way of assuring clear communication between you and your attorney about the total cost of the case.

Tip: In some cases, it may save hundreds of dollars if you ask a lawyer to bill at 6-minute instead of 15-minute intervals. For example, if a lawyer’s minimum billing unit is 15 minutes, each 5-minute phone call will be billed at one-fourth of the hourly rate. At 6-minute phone intervals, a 5-minute phone call costs just one-tenth of the hourly rate.

Choose a Lawyer with the Appropriate Qualifications

Most legal work is relatively routine. It often has little to do with complex legal theory or analysis, and much more to do with knowing which form to fill out and which county clerk will process it most quickly. Smaller firms, attorneys charging lower rates, and less experienced attorneys are often well suited for the broad range of legal work needed by many consumers. Recently graduated attorneys may offer to work for a somewhat lower price to compensate for the extra risk and time involved in becoming familiar with the specific area of law. Lawyers who charge $300 an hour and up are appropriate for very sophisticated trusts and estate work, corporate litigation, or complex criminal defense work.

Tip: Be wary of big law firms where you may get the impression that the young associate who has been assigned to your case (at a lower rate) is being supervised closely by the senior partners listed in the firm name. The associate may take three or four times as long as an experienced lawyer to draft the necessary papers. You might want to meet with the associate and the supervising partner before work begins to ascertain who is going to do what and to get an estimate as to how much the work should cost. Such a meeting may prevent the firm from charging you for an associate’s on-the-job training.

Offer to Perform Some of the Work

Discuss ways that you can help the attorney on the case. For example, if the attorney needs copies of birth certificates or other records, you can write the letter to request them and save your attorney the time needed to dictate and process the letter.

Splitting the work with an attorney also can cut the cost of writing a will or health-care power of attorney or setting up a trust. You can draft the document, using a standard form as a guide, and then present it to your lawyer for reviewing and finalizing the work. Make sure that your attorney is willing to do this kind of work and discuss the fee if major rewriting is needed.

Hire the Attorney to Act as Go-Between

Some lawyers are open to negotiating a lower fee if you are only looking for their legal expertise to write a letter to the other side to settle. You may wish to hire the attorney for this type of limited assistance initially and follow up yourself. If you are unsuccessful, you may wish to retain the attorney to further pursue the case.

Hire the Attorney to Act as Your Pro Se Coach

If you want to represent yourself in court (called “appearing pro se”), hire your attorney to act as a pro se coach who will review documents and letters that you prepare and sign. The attorney may also help you prepare for a hearing in which you represent yourself. This might be appropriate when appearing in small claims court to enforce a lease or collect bills owed to you, for example.

Not all attorneys will be comfortable in this role, but some, especially in smaller firms, may be interested in empowering consumers.

Choose a Lawyer Who Specializes in What You Need

You are likely to save money by choosing someone who has the knowledge and office systems set up to handle cases like yours cost-effectively. That attorney is also more likely to be knowledgeable about specific procedures relating to your case, expert witnesses in the area, and other attorney experts for consultation.

Note: A rapidly growing specialty in the legal profession is “Elder Law,” which includes traditional areas of legal practice such as estate planning and probate, as well as public benefits such as Medicare and Social Security, and issues such as planning for long-term care placement and health-care decision-making. Some attorneys have begun identifying themselves as elder law specialists. Most of these do not specialize in all of the areas covered by the broad term elder law. Therefore, you should ask which areas an attorney handles.

Prepare for Your Attorney Meetings

Come prepared with all of the necessary information and papers. Ask questions to make sure that you are providing everything the attorney needs. Think about your legal problem and gather the information your attorney will need. Write down the names, addresses, and phone numbers of other people involved in the case. Write down the important events or facts. Bring any relevant papers such as contracts, letters, court notices, or leases. Keep copies of this information and provide it to your attorney. The more work you do to prepare, the less time your attorney needs to spend and charge you for finding the information.

Answer Your Attorney’s Questions Fully

Your communications to your attorney are confidential. Pay close attention to the questions your attorney asks you and offer complete and honest answers. If you are not sure if a piece of information is relevant, ask your attorney. If your attorney knows all the facts as early as possible in the case, it will save time and money that might be spent later on further investigation or misdirected case development.

If the Situation Changes, Tell Your Attorney as Soon as Possible

You are the primary source of information about your case and your attorney will act based on the information you have provided. If something happens or if you find out new information which may affect your case, give the information to your attorney quickly. It may change what he or she is doing on your case. It may save the attorney’s time and your money or save the attorney from heading in the wrong direction on a case.

Maximize the Value of Your Contacts with Your Attorney

Keep in mind that you will pay for virtually every minute you spend with your attorney. Consolidate your questions or information-giving into a single call. Pass on information in writing or to other office staff rather than speaking directly with the attorney, unless you have a specific reason to do so.

Caution: While a friendly relationship can facilitate the handling of your case, limit phone calls and meetings to the business of the case. You do not want to pay for a long, friendly conversation about other matters.

Examine Your Bill

Request that your attorney bill you on a regular basis. Even if you have agreed on a contingency fee and will not actually pay the expenses until the case is settled, you should periodically examine the expenses. Question any items that you do not understand or that are not covered in your fee agreement.

Caution: Your attorney may list the cost of attending continuing legal education seminars in the area of your case. Unless you have agreed to cover these costs, you should question this entry.

Step 7: Define Your Relationship And Stay Involved

In films or television, a client simply tells the attorney of the problem and the attorney, without regard for expenses or further consultation, solves the case. In real life, a partnership is necessary. You must state, at the outset, your expectations on how much you want the attorney to consult with you and which decisions (if any) he or she can make without consulting you. You must also discuss the details of your legal costs in the case.

There are many variations of the attorney-client relationship, from full representation to having the attorney act as a “pro se coach.”

The bottom line is that the outcome of the case affects you much more than it affects your attorney. No matter what role you envision for your attorney, you should be the decision-maker on all major points in your case. An attorney is hired for his or her experience on legal procedures and familiarity with the appropriate court system, but the more fully informed you are, the better prepared you will be to make the necessary key decisions and to oversee the work of your attorney.

At a minimum, educate yourself about the general area of law relevant to your case by reviewing one of the many self-help legal manuals and gathering information from the attorney interviews you conduct. You can find out about courtroom procedures from staff at the court (although they may be reluctant), legal aid staff, or the law library or your public library.

Further, you can support the attorney by gathering documents and performing other agreed upon tasks. It may be wise both financially and in terms of your staying involved in the case for you to undertake certain tasks to support the work on your case. There are various tasks in the development of any case which do not require specialized legal expertise, e.g., compiling information, researching regulations or company policy, obtaining birth certificates or other documents, or reviewing the factual portions of documents prepared for court.

In making the decision about the degree of your involvement, ask yourself the following questions:

  • How much time and effort can I realistically contribute?
  • How much do I need to control (monitor) the day-to-day direction of the case?
  • How familiar am I with this area of the law?
  • How much is this case worth to me (financially)?
  • How important is the outcome?

You will need to have a clear agreement with your attorney about your relative roles and expectations. On one hand, your involvement should not hinder the attorney from exercising the expertise for which you hired the attorney. On the other, all options should be explained to you in clear language. Ask questions about the relative merits of a proposed step until you understand it.

Be wary of an attorney who makes strategic decisions without you, or who presents a proposed next step as necessary without explaining its merits and costs.

Here is a list of questions to be addressed, which can serve as a guideline:

  1. Do you want your attorney to act as pro se coach or as your representative? What work can you provide on the case? How frequently do you want to receive a billing (or a list of expenses if a contingency fee)?
  2. Do you want to review copies of pleadings (court papers) before they are filed? Receive copies after they are filed? Review some but not all documents? Which ones?
  3. How often is it appropriate to meet? What benchmark should trigger a meeting?
  4. How often do you want to talk to the attorney or receive a case update? Can staff convey the message? Will a short note be sufficient?
  5. Are there spending limits or benchmark figures for expenses or fees which should trigger a client consultation before going ahead on the case?

Step 8: Elder Law

Many attorneys who specialize in the elder law area are familiar with the other professionals (such as ombudsmen, social workers, geriatric care managers, or other elder care professionals) who can provide related services to older people. They may also be trained in the mental and physical effects of the normal aging process.

What Elder Law Includes

The broad range of legal areas covered by “elder law” includes:

  • Estate planning, including the management of an estate during the person’s lifetime and planning how the estate will be divided upon the person’s death through wills, trusts, asset transfers, tax planning, and other methods.
  • Long-term care planning, including nursing home issues such as quality of care, admissions contracts, prevention of spousal impoverishment, and resident’s rights. It also includes life care or retirement community issues such as evaluating the proposed plan/contract.
  • Retirement issues, including Social Security (retirement and disability and survivors’ benefits) and other public pensions (veterans, civil service) and benefits as well as private pension benefits.
  • Health care issue, including Medicare, Medicaid, Medigap insurance, and long-term care insurance.
  • Housing issues, including home equity conversion and age discrimination.
  • Planning for possible incapacity, by choosing in advance how health care and financial decisions will be made if you are unable to do so (methods include durable powers of attorney, health-care powers of attorney, living wills, and other means of delegating the decision making). The attorney may also be able to advise on conservatorship and guardianship proceedings in the event that the elder has not planned for incapacity.
  • Age discrimination issues including bringing cases under the Age Discrimination in Employment Act.

Today most lawyers limit their practices to a few areas such as domestic relations, criminal law, personal injury, estate planning and probate, real estate, or tax issues. Even attorneys who list themselves as elder law specialists are unlikely to be expert in all the areas detailed above.

Do You Need An Elder Law Specialist?

The answer depends on your situation. If you already have a good working relationship with an attorney, discuss your particular legal needs with that attorney. Ask about your lawyer’s experience in the issues typical of elder law. If the attorney is experienced in the areas of most concern to you, it is unlikely you will wish to go elsewhere. If the attorney is unfamiliar with elder law issues, ask the attorney for a referral or visit the National Academy of Elder Law Attorneys (NAELA) website (more information below).

Another reason you may want to seek out an elder law specialist is that finding the best solution is likely to involve a variety of other professionals such as physicians, home care agency workers, geriatric care managers, bank officers, and long-term care ombudsmen. An attorney familiar with this network can be very helpful. If needed, the attorney can act as a legal representative (fiduciary) if a client becomes incapacitated. Elder law specialists may work closely with financial planners, social workers, or geriatric care managers. This can be an advantage for many clients as a number of elder law issues involve both legal and non-legal solutions.

Note: It is always necessary to look for someone with the appropriate technical expertise and experience regardless of how the lawyer identifies himself or herself.

The National Academy of Elder Law Attorneys (NAELA) is a nonprofit professional association of attorneys specializing in legal issues affecting older persons. NAELA is not a legal referral service; however, it does sell a registry listing over 4,200 member attorneys nationwide ($25 including shipping and handling). National Academy of Elder Law Attorneys (NAELA),1577 Spring Hill Rd., Suite 220, Vienna, VA 22182. Telephone: 703-942-5711

The Area Agency on Aging

The Older Americans Act (OAA) requires your state office on aging to fund a local Area Agency on Aging (AAA) program that provides free legal help on non-criminal matters to people age 60 and over. Most of the over 385 local AAAs in 41 states set aside funds to provide free legal assistance for those older persons who are in the greatest social and economic need.

OAA legal services advocates provide representation in court or at administrative hearings, community education, and self-help publications. The OAA programs offer other types of assistance and services as well. For example, an advocate may assist an older person with a food stamp appeal and arrange for transportation to a nutrition site. The OAA legal services programs do a great deal of outreach to the community. Some attorneys spend as much as half of their time speaking at senior centers or visiting people in their own homes.

There are no income guidelines that clients must meet in order to qualify for services. However, the legal services provider and the Area Agency on Aging may set priorities about the preferred type of representation, such as obtaining government benefits and may not be able to provide help in cases the agency considers to be a lower priority.

There is no cost to eligible clients. OAA legal services providers handle civil (not criminal) matters for people age 60 or older regardless of income. Local offices set priorities for the types of cases they will handle. Not all cases can be handled.

Programs or offices providing free legal help to older persons can be identified by calling your local Area Agency on Aging listed in the government section of the telephone directory.

A national directory of OAA legal services providers (entitled Law & Aging Resource Guide) lists a state-by-state breakdown of the addresses and phone numbers of each office and is available from the American Bar Association Commission on Law and Aging, 740 15th Street, N.W. Washington, D.C. 20005-1022. Telephone: 202-662-8690. Website: www.americanbar.org

Other Sources of Legal Assistance For Senior Citizens

There are a number of sources of legal help for elderly people:

The Administration on Aging, headquartered in Washington, D.C. has a number of regional offices that offer legal help for the elderly:

Region I- CT, MA, ME, NH, RI, VT: (617) 565-1158
Region II & III- NY, NJ, PR, VI, DC, DE, MD, PA, VA, WV: (212) 264-2976
Region IV – AL, FL, GA, KY, MS, NC, SC, TN: (404) 562-7600
Region V- IL, IN, MI, MN, OH, WI: (312) 353-3141
Region VI – AR, LA, OK, NM, TX: (214) 767-2971
Region VII – IA, KS, MO, NE: (312) 353-3141
Region VIII – CO, MT, UT, WY, ND, SD: (303) 844-2951
Region IX – CA, NV, AZ, HI, GU, CNMI, AS: (415) 437-8780
Region X – AK, ID, OR, WA: (206) 615-2298

The National Consumer Voice for Quality Long-Term Care (formerly the NCCNHR (National Citizens’ Coalition for Nursing Home Reform) can locate an ombudsman in your area and provide general information on nursing homes.

The Consumer Voice, 1001 Connecticut Avenue, NW, Suite 425, Washington, DC 20036
Tel. 202.332.2275, website: www.theconsumervoice.org

Step 9: Legal HotLines

In this section, we list publications helpful to those trying to find a lawyer and lists of sources for legal services for seniors and low-income people.

  • The American Association of Retired Persons (AARP) and the federal government’s Administration on Aging (AoA) sponsor statewide legal hotlines that provide legal advice to all persons age 60 or older, regardless of income or the nature of their problem. The hotlines are staffed by attorneys who give advice, send pamphlets, or make referrals to special panels of attorneys or to legal services programs.

Most (including the AARP and AoA-funded hotlines) do not charge for the advice given. Cases which require additional service are referred to special panels of attorneys who charge reduced fees or to free legal services programs.

Step 10: Other Free Or Low-Cost Services

901 15th Street, NW, Suite 525, Washington, DC 20005
Tel. (202) 684-8460
 

200 Constitution Ave, NW, Ste S-2524, Washington, DC 20210
Tel (202) 93-8300
 


02 Aug 2024

Federal law grants consumers several rights relating to their credit card transactions, against the card companies and in the case of a dispute with a merchant. This Financial Guide discusses these important rights in depth.

You have numerous rights related to your use of a credit card. These include (1) prompt credit for payment, (2) refunds of credit balances, (3) resolution of errors, (4) removal of unauthorized charges, (5) resolution of disputes, (6) prompt shipment, (7) refusal of delivery, (8) withholding of payment in case of dispute, (9) protection against offensive junk mail/junk calls.


  • Prompt Credit For Payment
  • Refunds Of Credit Balances
  • Resolution Of Errors
  • Removal Of Unauthorized Charges
  • Resolution Of Disputes
  • Prompt Shipment
  • Protection Against Offensive Junk Mail/Junk Calls
  • Government and Non-Profit Agencies
Prompt Credit For Payment

A card issuer must credit your account on the day it receives your payment unless the payment is not made according to the creditor’s requirements or the delay in crediting to your account does not result in a charge.

Tip: To avoid delays that could result in finance charges, follow the card issuer’s instructions about where to send payments. Payments sent to other locations could delay getting credit for your payment for up to five days. If you lose your payment envelope, look on the billing statement for the address for payments or call the card issuer.

Refunds Of Credit Balances

When you return merchandise or pay more than you owe, you have the option of keeping the credit balance on your account or requesting a refund (if the amount exceeds $1.00). To obtain a refund, write the card issuer. The card issuer must send you the refund within seven business days of receiving your request.

Resolution Of Errors

The Fair Credit Billing Act provides specific rules that the card issuer must follow for promptly correcting billing errors. The card issuer will give you a statement describing these rules when you open the credit card account and, after that, at least once a year. Many card issuers print a summary of your rights on each bill they send you.

Billing errors include:

  • a charge for something you didn’t buy
  • a purchase by someone not authorized to use your card
  • an amount on your bill that is different from the actual amount you paid
  • a charge for something that you did not accept on delivery
  • a charge for something that was not delivered according to the agreement
  • arithmetic errors
  • payments not credited to your account

When you find an error you must notify the card issuer in writing within 60 days after the first bill containing the error was mailed to you. Some companies may accept e-mail; others will require that you put your dispute in writing. Be sure to include your name and account number, a description of the billing error and the date and amount of the charge you dispute.

During the period that the card issuer is investigating the error, you do not have to pay the amount in question. For further information visit Consumer Information.

Removal Of Unauthorized Charges

Under the Truth in Lending Act, if your credit card is used without your authorization, you are only held liable for up to $50 per card. If you report the loss before the card is used, federal law says the card issuer cannot hold you responsible for any unauthorized charges.

If a thief uses your card before you report it missing, the most you will owe for unauthorized charges is $50. This is true even if a thief is able to use your credit card at an automated teller machine (ATM) to access your credit card account.

To minimize your liability, report the loss of your card as soon as possible. Most companies have toll-free numbers printed on their statements and 24-hour service to report lost or stolen cards.

Resolution Of Disputes

If you have a problem with merchandise or services that you charged to a credit card, and you have made a good faith effort to work out the problem with the seller, you have the right to withhold from the card issuer payment for the merchandise or services. Check with your credit card company regarding their policies.

If you do not achieve satisfaction through the seller or credit card company, you can file a small claims court action an informal legal proceeding that can be used to settle disputes. Check your local telephone book under your municipal, county, or state government headings for small claims court listings.

In addition, you have the following rights:

You have the right to have mail and phone order purchases shipped when promised or to cancel for a full and prompt refund. If no shipping date is stated, your right to cancel begins 30 days after your order and payment are received by the merchant. If you cancel, the seller has one billing cycle to tell the card issuer to credit your account.

There are two exceptions to the 30-day shipment rule: (1) If a company doesn’t promise a shipping time, and you are applying for credit to pay for your purchase, the company has 50 days after receiving your order to ship. (2) Spaced deliveries, such as magazine subscriptions (except for the first shipment); items that continue until you cancel (e.g. book or record clubs, etc.); C.O.D. (cash on delivery) orders; services; and seeds or growing plants are not covered.

You have the right to a full refund–because of shipping delay–within seven working days (or one billing cycle) after the seller receives your request to cancel.

You may refuse a delivery of damaged or spoiled items.

Tip: If there is obvious damage to a package you receive in the mail, and if you decide not to accept the package, write “REFUSED” on the wrapper (at time of delivery) and return it unopened to the seller. No new postage is needed, unless the package came by insured, registered, certified or C.O.D. mail and you signed for it.

Tip: If you are ordering something to be delivered by C.O.D., make your check out to the seller, not the post office. That way, you may contact your bank and stop the check if there is an immediate problem with merchandise.

When you return merchandise or pay more than you owe, you have the option of keeping the credit balance on your account or requesting a refund (if the amount exceeds $1.00). To obtain a refund, write the card issuer. The card issuer must send you the refund within seven business days of receiving your request.

Prompt Shipment

You have the right to have mail and phone order purchases shipped when promised or to cancel for a full and prompt refund. If no shipping date is stated, your right to cancel begins 30 days after your order and payment are received by the merchant. You can choose to wait longer for your order, or cancel and get a prompt refund. If you cancel, and your order was paid by charge or credit card, the seller has one billing cycle to tell the card issuer to credit your account.

There are two exceptions to the 30-day shipment rule: (1) If a company doesn’t promise a shipping time, and you are applying for credit to pay for your purchase, the company has 50 days after receiving your order to ship. (2) Spaced deliveries, such as magazine subscriptions (except for the first shipment); items which continue until you cancel (e.g. book or record clubs, etc.); C.O.D. (cash on delivery) orders; services; and seeds or growing plants are not covered.

You have the right to a full refund-because of shipping delay-within seven working days (or one billing cycle) after the seller receives your request to cancel.

Refusal Of Delivery

You may refuse a delivery of damaged or spoiled items.

Withholding Of Payment In Case Of Dispute

You need not pay a disputed amount while your dispute is being reviewed by the card issuer.

If you receive something C.O.D., you have the right to stop payment on a check made out to a seller, but not one made out to the Post Office, if there is something wrong with the order.

Tip: If you are ordering something to be delivered by C.O.D., make your check out to the seller, not the post office. That way, you may contact your bank and stop the check if there is an immediate problem with merchandise.

Protection Against Offensive Junk Mail/Junk Calls

You have the right to tell commercial telephone and direct mail marketers to stop calling you. If you wish to have your name removed from telephone lists of marketing companies contact the federal Do Not Call Registry:

National Do Not Call Registry
Federal Trade Commission
600 Pennsylvania Avenue, NW
Washington, DC 20580
website: www.donotcall.gov

Consumers who do not wish to receive promotional mail at home should contact:

Data & Marketing Association, Inc. (formerly the Direct Marketing Association)
1333 Broadway, Suite #301
New York, NY 10036-6700
Tel. 212.768.7277
website: www.DMAChoice.org

If companies you now do business with also removes your name, you can contact them directly to have your name reinstated. If the marketer violates the do-not-call list, the first step is to file a complaint with the FTC (Federal Trade Commission). You can also file a lawsuit against the telemarketer, but only if there is a “pattern and practice” of violations. You also have to have suffered actual damages of more than $50,000 and be able to prove both of these things.

Tip: If you receive unordered merchandise in the mail, consider it a gift and don’t feel pressure to pay for it.

Government and Non-Profit Agencies

The following agencies are responsible for enforcing federal laws that govern credit card transactions. Questions concerning a particular card issuer should be directed to the enforcement agency responsible for that issuer.

State Member Banks of the Reserve System:
Consumer & Community Affairs
Board of Governors of the Federal Reserve System
20th & Constitution Avenue, N.W.
Washington, D.C. 20551

National Banks:
Comptroller of the Currency
Customer Assistance Group
1301 McKinney Street
Suite 3450
Houston, TX 77010
Tel. (800) 613-6743

Federal Credit Unions:
National Credit Union Administration
1775 Duke St # 4206
Alexandria, VA 22314-6115

Non-Member Federally Insured Banks:
Federal Deposit Insurance Corporation
Consumer Response Center
1100 Walnut St, Box #11
Kansas City, MO 64106

Federally Insured Savings and Loans, and Federally Chartered State Banks:
Comptroller of the Currency
Customer Assistance Group
1301 McKinney Street
Suite 3450
Houston, TX 77010
Tel. (800) 613-6743

Other Credit Card Issuers (includes retail gasoline companies):
Bureau of Consumer Protection
Federal Trade Commission
600 Pennsylvania Avenue, NW
Washington, D.C. 20580

The U.S. Postal Inspection Service:
This office covers mail fraud, sexually offensive materials, solicitations that look like government materials but are not. If you suspect such violations, contact your local Postmaster or Postal Inspector or:

Criminal Investigations Service Center
Attn: Mail Fraud
222 S. Riverside Plaza Ste. 1250
Chicago Il 60606-6100
Tel. 877-876-2455

The Federal Trade Commission:
Does not handle individual complaints, but reporting failure to deliver, late delivery, unordered merchandise, misrepresentation or fraud helps uncover widespread abuses that the FTC might take action to stop.

Division of Enforcement
Federal Trade Commission
600 Pennsylvania Avenue, NW
Washington, DC 20580
Tel. (202) 326-2222

National Do Not Call Registry:
If you wish to have your name removed from telephone lists of marketing companies.

National Do Not Call Registry
Federal Trade Commission
600 Pennsylvania Avenue, NW
Washington, DC 20580
website: www.donotcall.gov

Direct Marketing Mail Opt-Out:
Consumers who do not wish to receive promotional mail at home

Direct Marketing Association
1120 Avenue of the Americas
NY, NY New York, NY 10036-6700
Tel. 212.768.7277
website: www.DMAChoice.org

Low or No-Cost Credit Cards:
Bankrate.com lists banks charging no fees and low interest rates for credit cards. Visit the website: www.bankrate.com


02 Aug 2024

If like thousands of others, you are having trouble paying your debts, it is important to take action. Doing nothing can lead to much larger problems in the future–and even bigger debts, such as the loss of assets such as your house, and a bad credit record. This Financial Guide suggests how you can help improve your relationships with creditors, reduce your debts, better manage your money and get a fresh start.

How can you tell when you have too much debt? What if bill collectors are not calling yet, but you are having difficulty paying monthly bills? If these problems seem familiar, you should take action.

  • Have you run several credit cards up to the limit?
  • Do you frequently make only the minimum monthly payments on your credit cards?
  • Do you apply for almost any credit card you are offered without checking out the terms?
  • Have you used the cash advance feature from one card to pay the minimum payment on another?
  • Do you use cash advances (or use a credit card) for living expenses such as food, rent, or utilities?
  • Are you unaware of what your total debt is?
  • Are you unaware of how long it would take you to pay off all your current debts (excluding mortgages and cars) at the rate you are paying?

If you find any of these statements apply to you, you may need to learn more about managing debt before you try to reestablish credit.


  • Getting Started
  • Credit Counseling Agencies
  • Personal Bankruptcy
  • Scams And Pitfalls
  • Government and Non-Profit Agencies
Getting Started

Here are some specific steps you can take if you are in financial trouble:

  1. Review each debt. Make sure that the debt creditors claim you owe is really what you owe and that the amount is correct. If you dispute a debt, first contact the creditor directly to resolve your questions. If you still have questions about the debt, contact your state or local consumer protection office or, in cases of serious creditor abuse, your state Attorney General.
  2. Contact your creditors. Let your creditors know that you are having difficulty making your payments. Tell them why you are having trouble–perhaps it is because you recently lost your job or have unexpected medical bills. Try to work out an acceptable payment schedule with your creditors. Most are willing to work with you and will appreciate your honesty and forthrightness.

    Tip: Most automobile financing agreements permit your creditor to repossess your car any time you are in default, with no advance notice. If your car is repossessed you may have to pay the full balance due on the loan, as well as towing and storage costs, to get it back. Do not wait until you are in default. Try to solve the problem with your creditor when you realize you will not be able to meet your payments. It may be better to sell the car yourself and pay off your debt than to incur the added costs of repossession.

  3. Budget your expenses. Create a spending plan that allows you to reduce your debts. Itemize your necessary expenses (such as housing and healthcare) and optional expenses (such as entertainment and vacation travel). Stick to the plan.

    Related Guide: For some guidance in this regard, please see the Financial Guide: BUDGETING: How To Prepare A Workable Plan.

    Tip: Try self-budgeting before taking more extreme measures.

  4. Try to reduce your expenses. Cut out any unnecessary spending such as eating out and purchasing expensive entertainment. Consider taking public transportation or using a car sharing service rather than owning a car. Clip coupons, purchase generic products at the supermarket and avoid impulse purchases. Above all, stop incurring new debt. Leave your credit cards at home. Pay for all purchases in cash or use a debit card instead of a credit card.
  5. Pay down debts using savings. Withdrawing savings from low-interest accounts to settle high-rate loans or credit card debt usually makes sense.

    Tip: Selling off a second car not only provides cash but also reduces insurance and other maintenance expenses.

  6. Find out if you are eligible for social services. Government assistance includes unemployment compensation, Temporary Assistance for Needy Families (TANF) formerly Aid to Families with Dependent Children (AFDC), food stamps, now known as Supplemental Nutrition Assistance Program (SNAP), low-income energy assistance, Medicaid, and Social Security (including disability). Other resources may be available from churches and community groups.
  7. Try to consolidate your debts. There are a number of ways to pay off high-interest loans, such as credit cards, by getting a refinancing or consolidation loan, such as a second mortgage.

    Caution: Be wary of any loan consolidations or other refinancing that actually increase interest owed, or require payments of points or large fees.

    Caution: Second mortgages greatly increase the risk that you may lose your home.

  8. Prepare a financial plan. A financial plan can alleviate financial worries about the future and ensure that you will meet your financial goals whether they relate to retirement, asset acquisition, education, or just vacations.

    Related Guide: For guidance on how to begin the financial planning process, please see the Financial Guide: YOUR FINANCIAL PLAN: Getting Started On A Secure Future.

Credit Counseling Agencies

If you are unable to make satisfactory arrangements with your creditors, there are organizations to help you accomplish this. For instance, National Foundation for Consumer Credit (NFCC) member agencies provide education and counseling to families and individuals. For consumers who want individual help, counselors with professional backgrounds in money management and counseling are available to provide support.

To promote high standards, the NFCC has developed a certification program for these counselors known as Certified Consumer Credit Counselors (CCCS). A counselor will work with you to develop a budget to maintain your basic living expenses and outline options for addressing your total financial situation.

If creditors are pressing you, a CCCS counselor can also negotiate with these creditors to repay your debts through a financial management plan. Under this plan, creditors often agree to reduce payments or drop interest and finance charges and waive late fees and over-the-limit fees. After starting the plan, you will deposit money with CCCS each month to cover these newly negotiated payment amounts. Then CCCS will distribute this money to your creditors to repay your debts.

With more than 1,100 locations nationwide, CCCS agencies are available to nearly all consumers. Supported mainly by contributions from community organizations, financial institutions, and merchants, CCCS provides services free or at a low cost to individuals seeking help. To contact a CCCS office for confidential help call 1 (800) 388-2227, 24 hours a day, for an office near you or visit their website: NFCC

Personal Bankruptcy

Bankruptcy is a legal proceeding that is intended to give people who cannot pay their bills a fresh start.

Tip: A decision to file for bankruptcy is a serious step, which should be taken only if it is the best way to deal with financial problems.

There are two types of bankruptcy available to most individuals:

  • Chapter 13 bankruptcy allows debtors to keep property which they might otherwise lose, such as a mortgaged house or car. Reorganizations may allow debtors to pay off or cure a default over a period of three to five years, rather than surrender property.
  • Chapter 7 or “straight bankruptcy” involves liquidation of all assets that are not exempt in your state. The exempt property may include items such as work-related tools and basic household furnishings, among others. Some of your property may be sold by a court-appointed official or turned over to your creditors. You can file for Chapter 7 only once every eight years.

Both types of bankruptcy may get rid of unsecured debts (those where creditors have no rights to specific property), and stop foreclosures, repossessions, garnishments, utility shut-offs and debt collection activities. Both types also provide exemptions that permit most individual debtors to keep most of their assets, though these “exemption” amounts vary greatly from state to state.

Bankruptcy cannot clean up a bad credit record and will be part of this record for up to ten years. Thus, filing bankruptcy will make it more difficult to get a mortgage to buy a house. It usually does not wipe out child support, alimony, fines, taxes, and some student loan obligations. Also, under Chapter 13, unless you have an acceptable plan to catch up on your debt, bankruptcy usually does not permit you to keep property when the creditor has an unpaid mortgage or lien on it. Bankruptcy cases must be filed in federal court.

Tip: Be cautious when choosing a bankruptcy lawyer. Some of the less reputable lawyers make easy money by handling hundreds of bankruptcy cases without adequately considering individual needs and alternative solutions. Get recommendations from people you know and trust, and from employee assistance programs.

Related Guide: For information on making sure you pick the right lawyer, please see the Financial Guide: LAWYERS: How To Choose The Right One.

Some public-funded legal services programs handle bankruptcy cases without charging attorney fees. Or these programs may provide referrals to private bankruptcy lawyers. Keep in mind that the fees of these attorneys may vary widely.

Scams And Pitfalls

Consumers with credit problems have paid millions of dollars to firms that claim they can remove negative information, clean up credit reports, and allow consumers to get credit no matter how bad the credit history.

These credit repair clinics charge consumers anywhere from $50 to $2,000 and often use questionable methods. Most clinics make misleading promises to consumers, and charge high fees for doing what you could do yourself–or simply take your money and do nothing at all.

Tip: Do not confuse the for-profit credit repair clinics discussed here with the non-profit Consumer Credit Counseling Services (CCCS) we discussed before.

Here are some common promises made by credit clinics and the reasons consumers should beware of such claims:

“Based on little-known loopholes in Federal credit laws, we can show you how to clean up your credit report!”

These “loopholes” are merely the provisions of the Fair Credit Reporting Act (FCRA), under which you have the right to challenge information in your credit report you believe incorrect. We discussed these provisions earlier in the section on “What To Do If You Have A Bad Credit Report.” Credit repair clinics often flood credit bureaus with requests to check whether or not all negative data is correct. Credit clinics hope creditors will not be able to verify the information in a reasonable time period, causing the negative information to have to be dropped under the FCRA. Some credit clinics even tell consumers to challenge neutral information (e.g., name and address), hoping to distort file data so that the old, negative file will no longer be identifiable when a creditor asks for a consumer’s file. Creditors and credit bureaus have become familiar with such tactics, and they have sought to use the provision of the FCRA that allows them to dismiss “frivolous” disputes of file information and to refuse to respond to repeated disputes of the same data.

“We can show you how to remove negative information from your file-including judgments.”

Some clinics tell consumers to pay off any bills outstanding with the creditor in exchange for the removal of negative information. Or, they may tell a consumer who has an account in collections to pay part of the balance with a check. The check is to carry a disclaimer saying that, by cashing the check, the creditor agrees to remove the account from collections and remove any negative information about the account from its files. Creditors are under no obligation to agree to such measures, and the fees paid to clinics for such advice is wasted.

“We can get you a major credit card-even if you’ve been through bankruptcy!”

What you are not told is that you will have to “secure” the card first. Most credit cards are unsecured; that is, you are not pledging any of your assets as collateral for any credit you may use. A card is secured when a consumer puts a deposit in the bank and gets a bankcard with a credit limit based on a percentage of that deposit. While a secured card can be an excellent tool for rebuilding credit, why should you pay the credit clinic just to provide an application and deposit slip?

Often for-profit or non-credential counseling organizations make promises that they cannot or do not keep. Be especially careful when asked for a large sum of money in advance.

Tip: Several states have enacted laws to protect consumers against the deceptive practices of many credit clinics. These state laws generally require credit clinics to inform consumers of their rights under the FCRA; be bonded (hold a type of insurance to protect consumers who may sue) if they accept payment in advance of services; accurately represent what they can and cannot do; and offer a cancellation period before any contract for services the consumer may sign takes effect. Check with your state attorney general’s office to determine if there are any regulations for credit clinics in your state.

Tip: To check an organization’s reputation, contact your state Attorney General, consumer protection agency, or Better Business Bureau.

*   *   *   *

A Final Word: Don’t lose hope, even if you despair of ever recovering financially. You can regain financial health if you act responsibly. The options presented here can put you on the road to financial recovery. Professional financial guidance can get you off to the right start.

Government and Non-Profit Agencies

The following agencies are responsible for enforcing federal laws that govern credit card transactions. Questions concerning a particular card issuer should be directed to the enforcement agency responsible for that issuer.

State Member Banks of the Reserve System:
Consumer & Community Affairs
Board of Governors of the Federal Reserve System
20th & Constitution Avenue, N.W.
Washington, D.C. 20551

National Banks:
Comptroller of the Currency
Customer Assistance Group
1301 McKinney Street
Suite 3450
Houston, TX 77010
Tel. (800) 613-6743

Federal Credit Unions:
National Credit Union Administration
1775 Duke St # 4206
Alexandria, VA 22314-6115

Non-Member Federally Insured Banks:
Federal Deposit Insurance Corporation
Consumer Response Center
1100 Walnut St, Box #11
Kansas City, MO 64106

Federally Insured Savings and Loans, and Federally Chartered State Banks:
Comptroller of the Currency
Customer Assistance Group
1301 McKinney Street
Suite 3450
Houston, TX 77010
Tel. (800) 613-6743

Other Credit Card Issuers (includes retail gasoline companies):
Bureau of Consumer Protection
Federal Trade Commission
600 Pennsylvania Avenue, NW
Washington, D.C. 20580

The U.S. Postal Inspection Service:
This office covers mail fraud, sexually offensive materials, solicitations that look like government materials but are not. If you suspect such violations, contact your local Postmaster or Postal Inspector or:

Criminal Investigations Service Center
Attn: Mail Fraud
222 S. Riverside Plaza Ste. 1250
Chicago Il 60606-6100
Tel. 877-876-2455

The Federal Trade Commission:
Does not handle individual complaints, but reporting failure to deliver, late delivery, unordered merchandise, misrepresentation or fraud helps uncover widespread abuses that the FTC might take action to stop.

Division of Enforcement
Federal Trade Commission
600 Pennsylvania Avenue, NW
Washington, DC 20580
Tel. (202) 326-2222

National Do Not Call Registry:
If you wish to have your name removed from telephone lists of marketing companies.

National Do Not Call Registry
Federal Trade Commission
600 Pennsylvania Avenue, NW
Washington, DC 20580
website: www.donotcall.gov

Direct Marketing Mail Opt-Out:
Consumers who do not wish to receive promotional mail at home

Direct Marketing Association
1120 Avenue of the Americas
NY, NY New York, NY 10036-6700
Tel. 212.768.7277
website: www.DMAChoice.org

Low or No-Cost Credit Cards:
Bankrate.com lists banks charging no fees and low interest rates for credit cards. Visit the website: www.bankrate.com


02 Aug 2024

Many merchants engraft their own rules to your use of a credit card, usually without the right to do so. What are you required to do and what can you rightfully refuse to do? The Financial Guide explains your rights.

Do sales clerks ask you to write your phone number or address on a credit card slip? Have you been told that “store policy” requires a $25 minimum for credit card use? Have you been charged an extra 3 percent just for using a major credit card? When you pay by personal check, does the clerk ask for two forms of identification and then write your credit card number on your check?

These practices violate your privacy, expose you to potential credit fraud and may be illegal in some cases. We will tell you how to say “no” to a merchant who engages in these impermissible credit card practices:

  • Writes your personal information on a bank credit card sales slip
  • Imposes a minimum sales amount for credit card purchases
  • Charges extra for payment by credit card
  • Writes your credit card number on your personal check


  • Personal Information
  • Minimum Charge Requirements
  • Extra Charge For Using A Credit Card
  • ID When Paying By Check
  • Cards Other Than The “Big Three“
  • How To Complain
  • States That Prohibit Recording Of Personal Information
  • States That Prohibit Credit Card Surcharges
  • States That Prohibit Recording A Credit Card Number On A Check
  • Government and Non-Profit Agencies
Personal Information

When using a credit card for a purchase, some merchants might ask you to provide a phone number, home address, or other personal information on credit card sales slips; however, consumers should always decline. This practice not only violates your privacy, but American Express, MasterCard, and Visa prohibit requiring it as a condition of sale. Furthermore, while credit card policies as well as state and federal laws vary, in California, for example, it is illegal for the merchant to record any personal information other than what is on the front of the credit card.

There is no need for merchants to obtain phone numbers or other personal information from customers. Once they have correctly processed the bank card transaction (gotten an authorization number and made sure the signatures match), they are guaranteed to receive payment.

Tip: If you don’t want to provide personal information on a credit card sales slip, you can refuse to do so. The merchant has no right to refuse you the sale (although unknowledgeable clerks may have no authority to vary from store policy).

Further, if you refuse to present identification, such as a driver’s license, the merchant may not refuse to make a credit card sale under Visa, MasterCard, and Amex rules.

Tip: If you exceed your credit limit, the card-issuing bank absorbs the loss, so there is no need for the merchant to contact you. Thus, there’s no reason to provide your personal information.

Minimum Charge Requirements

Some stores require consumers to spend at least $20 (or some other minimum) to pay for purchases by credit card. They engage in this practice because they and their banks do not want the expense of processing a credit card transaction involving a small amount of money.

This practice defeats one of the major purposes of credit cards-convenience-and may force credit card users to spend more than they want to. In addition, minimum charge requirements vary from merchant to merchant, and there are no regulations requiring disclosure of these minimum purchase levels.

Visa’s and MasterCard’s regulations prohibit minimum charge amounts. American Express’s regulations do not explicitly prohibit minimum charges, but its policy is to discourage any merchant practices that create a “barrier to acceptance.” Amex does prohibit “discrimination” against the Amex card, however, so if a merchant has no minimum charge for Visa and MasterCard, the merchant may not discriminate against Amex by imposing a minimum charge.

Tip: If a store requires a minimum purchase for Visa or MasterCard, point out to the store manager that the practice is prohibited by the card companies.

Extra Charge For Using A Credit Card

Some merchants seek to impose a service fee for all credit card purchases.

When a merchant gives a credit card slip to the credit card company or bank for processing, a percentage of each purchase-usually 1.5 to 5 percent of the purchase amount is deducted. This “merchant discount fee” helps pay for the bank’s services and for the credit card system. By charging extra for credit card use, the merchant passes the discount fee on to customers.

Visa and MasterCard prohibit surcharges, and American Express discourages them. Amex does prohibit “discrimination” against the Amex card, however, so if a merchant accepts Visa and MasterCard (and cannot impose a surcharge under those companies’ rules), the merchant may not discriminate against Amex by imposing a surcharge.

Tip: Any merchant that accepts American Express cards and also accepts Visa and/or MasterCard may not charge consumers a surcharge on Amex purchases.

Surcharges invite numerous abuses by retailers, including bait-and-switch tactics. There are no laws on how and when surcharges must be disclosed, making it difficult to figure out the total price of an item. Travelers often find it difficult to get out-of-state checks accepted, and should not be penalized for using credit cards. Further, credit card acceptance usually produces higher sales for merchants, offsetting the cost of processing credit card transactions.

Note that a cash discount is legal and permitted under all credit card companies rules. A cash discount offers a lower price for cash than credit; for example, many gasoline stations offer cash discounts. While this may merely be a loophole, it is permitted. In addition, there are a few state governmental agencies, including state tax offices and motor vehicle departments that are permitted to charge surcharges due to state laws that do not permit them to pay discount fees. However, retail merchants may not impose surcharges.

ID When Paying By Check

Merchants often ask for two forms of identification before accepting a personal check as payment for a purchase: a driver’s license and a major credit card. Merchants also believe consumers with credit cards are less likely to bounce checks. This is a misconception: nearly 90 percent of all bounced checks result from arithmetic error, not fraud.

When merchants write your credit card number on your personal check, they are subjecting you to possible fraud.

  • Anyone who sees the check sees your name, address, telephone number, and credit card number.
  • Further, several states use an individual’s Social Security number as the only identifying number on a driver’s license. Once a thief has your Social Security number, along with the other information on the check, he or she can get your credit report, and even apply for credit in your name.
  • Someone can use your credit card number to order merchandise by phone or through the mail by requesting the merchandise be sent to a post office box or an address other than your own.
  • Someone might use your personal information to apply for credit in your name, then run up bills on your account without paying them, of course. People who are victims of so-called application fraud do not find out until months or even years later when they begin receiving letters from creditors, by which time the damage has been done to their credit histories.

Although Visa, MasterCard and American Express do not have the authority to prohibit the practice of writing credit card numbers on checks, the three card companies do prohibit merchants from charging a credit card account to cover a bounced check.

Tip: If a merchant asks for your credit card number, ask why he or she needs to record it, since, due to the above prohibition, nothing can be done with it.

Tip: There is probably no harm in allowing a merchant to see that you carry a major credit card, and even to note on the check whether it is Visa, MasterCard, or American Express. For your own safety, this is the only credit card-related information you should allow to be recorded. You should not allow the merchant to record the credit card number.

If the sale is refused, ask to speak with the store manager. Explain the risks of fraud, and point out that the rules of the three major credit card companies prohibit charging a credit card to cover a bounced check. You might also point out that, if there is a problem, merchants usually have all the information they need to locate the customer written right on the check: name, address, phone number and driver’s license number. Also, merchants will not be able to use the credit card number to locate the consumer.

Many store clerks are simply unaware of the potential crimes associated with the use of personal information written on checks.

Cards Other Than The “Big Three“

Other cards may not provide cardholders with any of the protections described above. However, purchases made with other cards are covered in all states that have laws prohibiting the practices described here.

Tip: Cardholders who experience the practices discussed here should complain to store managers and encourage the card company to change its policies.

How To Complain

When merchants violate the policies described here, report them to Visa, MasterCard, and American Express.

  • Visa USA
    Consumer Relations
    P.O. Box 8999
    San Francisco, CA 94128
    +1-800-VISA-911 (customer assistance)
  • MasterCard Worldwide
    Public Relations
    2000 Purchase Street
    Purchase, NY 10577
    Call collect from anywhere globally: +1-636-722-7111 or toll-free from the United States: +1-800-627-8372 (+1 800 MASTERCARD)
  • American Express
    Customer Service
    PO Box 297812
    Ft. Lauderdale, FL 33329-7812
    1-800-528-4800 (US) or 1-336-393-1111 (International Collect)

In your letter, give the name and location of the merchant and a copy of a credit card sales slip. The sales slip is needed by Visa and MasterCard to track down the offending merchant. American Express provides cardmembers with a toll-free number to call if they have difficulty with a merchant. Make sure you have the complete details about the merchant and the problem before you call.

If a merchant is uncooperative, take your business elsewhere.

States That Prohibit Recording Of Personal Information

The following states prohibit merchants from recording certain personal information in connection with credit card transactions:

  • California
  • Delaware
  • Georgia
  • Kansas
  • Maryland
  • Massachusetts
  • Minnesota
  • Nevada
  • New Jersey
  • New York
  • Oregon
  • Pennsylvania
  • Rhode Island
  • Washington, DC
  • Wisconsin

States That Prohibit Credit Card Surcharges

The following states prohibit merchants from adding surcharges to credit card transactions

  • California
  • Colorado
  • Connecticut
  • Florida
  • Kansas
  • Maine
  • Massachusetts
  • New York
  • Oklahoma
  • Texas

States That Prohibit Recording A Credit Card Number On A Check

The following states prohibit merchants from recording your credit card number on your check:

  • California
  • Delaware
  • Florida
  • Georgia
  • Illinois
  • Iowa
  • Kansas
  • Maryland
  • Massachusetts
  • Michigan
  • Minnesota
  • Nevada
  • New Hampshire
  • New Jersey
  • New York
  • North Dakota
  • Ohio
  • Oregon
  • Pennsylvania
  • Rhode Island
  • Tennessee
  • Virginia
  • Washington, DC
  • Washington
  • Wisconsin

Government and Non-Profit Agencies

The following agencies are responsible for enforcing federal laws that govern credit card transactions. Questions concerning a particular card issuer should be directed to the enforcement agency responsible for that issuer.

State Member Banks of the Reserve System:
Consumer & Community Affairs
Board of Governors of the Federal Reserve System
20th & Constitution Avenue, N.W.
Washington, D.C. 20551

National Banks:
Comptroller of the Currency
Customer Assistance Group
1301 McKinney Street
Suite 3450
Houston, TX 77010
Tel. (800) 613-6743

Federal Credit Unions:
National Credit Union Administration
1775 Duke St # 4206
Alexandria, VA 22314-6115

Non-Member Federally Insured Banks:
Federal Deposit Insurance Corporation
Consumer Response Center
1100 Walnut St, Box #11
Kansas City, MO 64106

Federally Insured Savings and Loans, and Federally Chartered State Banks:
Comptroller of the Currency
Customer Assistance Group
1301 McKinney Street
Suite 3450
Houston, TX 77010
Tel. (800) 613-6743

Other Credit Card Issuers (includes retail gasoline companies):
Bureau of Consumer Protection
Federal Trade Commission
600 Pennsylvania Avenue, NW
Washington, D.C. 20580

The U.S. Postal Inspection Service:
This office covers mail fraud, sexually offensive materials, solicitations that look like government materials but are not. If you suspect such violations, contact your local Postmaster or Postal Inspector or:

Criminal Investigations Service Center
Attn: Mail Fraud
222 S. Riverside Plaza Ste. 1250
Chicago Il 60606-6100
Tel. 877-876-2455

The Federal Trade Commission:
Does not handle individual complaints, but reporting failure to deliver, late delivery, unordered merchandise, misrepresentation or fraud helps uncover widespread abuses that the FTC might take action to stop.

Division of Enforcement
Federal Trade Commission
600 Pennsylvania Avenue, NW
Washington, DC 20580
Tel. (202) 326-2222

National Do Not Call Registry:
If you wish to have your name removed from telephone lists of marketing companies.

National Do Not Call Registry
Federal Trade Commission
600 Pennsylvania Avenue, NW
Washington, DC 20580
website: www.donotcall.gov

Direct Marketing Mail Opt-Out:
Consumers who do not wish to receive promotional mail at home

Direct Marketing Association
1120 Avenue of the Americas
NY, NY New York, NY 10036-6700
Tel. 212.768.7277
website: www.DMAChoice.org

Low or No-Cost Credit Cards:
Bankrate.com lists banks charging no fees and low interest rates for credit cards. Visit the website: www.bankrate.com


02 Aug 2024

How do lenders determine who is approved for a credit card, mortgage, or car loan? Why are some individuals flooded with credit card offers while others get turned down routinely? Because creditors keep their evaluation standards secret, it is difficult to know just how to improve your credit rating. This Financial Guide explains how, and gives you a look into the practices of lenders and credit bureaus.


  • Credit Evaluation Factors
  • Cosigning An Account
  • Credit Limits
  • Obtaining Your Credit Reports
  • ECOA Designation Codes
  • Fair Credit Reporting Act (FCRA)
  • Finance Company Credit Cards
  • Fraud
  • Joint Accounts
  • Name/Alias
  • Putting An Explanation In Your Credit File
  • Understanding Your Credit Report
  • Government and Non-Profit Agencies
Credit Evaluation Factors

When you apply for a loan, how is your application processed? In some cases, such as applying for a loan from your bank, it may be as simple as going to the bank, giving brief information about why you need a loan, signing a loan contract and getting a check immediately. Other banks use loan committees – a group of bank employees who decide which applications to approve. Still others use sophisticated, complex computer analysis to evaluate applications.

Many creditors use credit scoring, in which point values are assigned to various credit characteristics. Those who get enough “points” get credit. Credit scoring can vary in complexity, according to the creditor’s policy.

Most creditors also have certain minimum requirements before they will consider an application. For instance, anyone who does not have a minimum annual income (perhaps $15,000) or who has been through bankruptcy may be summarily rejected.

Most credit-scoring systems are more complicated than the example used here, with ten to thirty or more pieces of data to be analyzed for each applicant. With a more complex scoring system, a clerk enters information from both the credit application and the credit report onto a computer system, and the system evaluates it and produces an acceptance or rejection letter. Smaller creditors using simpler credit scoring have loans evaluated by a loan officer who makes the decision.

By explaining what you need to make full use of your credit report, to determine your credit standing, and to maximize your chances for credit approval this Guide will help you to:

  • Better understand your credit report,
  • Know the meaning of jargon used in the credit industry, and
  • Find out exactly what you can do to improve your credit standing.

Age

If a lender’s credit experience shows that people in a certain age group have a better record of paying their bills than people of other ages, the lender may – legally – give a higher score to the better-paying age group.

However, the Equal Credit Opportunity Act (ECOA), a federal law intended to prevent discrimination in lending, does not allow lenders to discriminate against people age 62 or over. The ECOA requires creditors using a scoring system to give those aged 62 and older an age-factor score at least as high as that given to anyone under age 62.

A lender gives the following age scores to applicants:

Age:# Points
18-252 points
25-356 points
35-454 points
45 or more3 points
62 or more6 points

To prevent discrimination against older people, the lender must give anyone age 62 or older at least 6 points for age, since 6 points is the highest score available to anyone under 62 (i.e., those aged 25-35).

Residence

Many creditors give a higher score to those who have lived at the same address for at least two years. Some lenders just give extra points for living in the same area for two years or more.

Creditors may take into account your geographic location in scoring your length of time at one address. If you live in a city, where people move more often, the length of time at your address will probably count less than if you live in the country.

If your address is a post office box, you may find yourself turned down for credit. Also, to fight fraud, some creditors screen out applicants whose addresses indicate commercial offices, mail drops, or prisons. Since post office boxes or rural delivery boxes are commonplace in rural areas, however, a lender may issue a card to that address while rejecting applicants with a P.O. Box in a large city.

People who own their homes earn a higher score than renters.

“Authorized User” Payment History

An authorized user is someone who has permission to use a credit card but is not legally liable for the bills. If you are an authorized user on someone’s account, the payment history will likely be reported in your credit file, but you will not be able to rely on it to help you build your own credit rating. Usually, it will neither help you nor hurt you when you apply for a loan.

Bank Card History

One of the best things you can have on a credit report is a bankcard (e.g., a Visa, MasterCard or Discover card) that has been paid on time over a period. In a scoring system, a good bankcard reference usually carries more weight than a department store card or American Express card. Department store charge cards have lower credit limits and if used will typically have a higher debt to limit ratio, which has a negative impact on credit scores. In addition, American Express is a charge card. As such users must pay in full, the amount due when the monthly statement arrives. There is no minimum payment, interest rate, or spending limit, and while American Express reports the high balance to credit bureaus, it doesn’t impact FICO credit scores.

The reason a bankcard is a strong reference is that it shows a bank has trusted you with hundreds or even thousands of dollars on the basis of just your signature. Also, bankcards are more difficult to get than department store cards or travel and entertainment cards, so your qualifications must have been closely scrutinized when you applied.

Checking And Savings Accounts

People who have checking and savings accounts usually score better than those who do not. Some banks give you extra points if you have checking or savings accounts with them. Some banks also give discounts on loan rates when you hold other accounts with them.

Debt/Income Ratios

Some creditors look at your debt/income ratio how much you pay out each month compared to how much income you earn to determine whether you qualify for additional credit.

To find your debt/income ratio, total up your monthly payments on all bills. Do not include mortgage, utilities, doctor bills or other accounts that do not appear on your credit report: The creditor will not look at these. Then, divide your total payments by your monthly gross (before tax) income. What results is your debt to income ratio. If it is less than 28 percent, you should have no trouble getting a loan. If it falls between 28 and 35 percent, you have what is considered high debt, and you may find it difficult to obtain some loans.

If your debt/income ratio is 35 percent or more, you will probably not be able to get additional credit. More importantly, you are potentially in financial jeopardy. If you should incur unexpected expenses, get ill, lose your job, or get divorced, you could find yourself unable to meet your obligations. Consider seeking credit counseling through a local non-profit consumer credit counseling service. (Please see the listing at the end of this Guide.)

This summary provides general guidelines. Some large card issuers will accept debt ratios as high as 40-45 percent. Others compare your net (after-tax) income to your debts to determine your debt ratio.

If you keep your debt ratio below 28 percent, you can consider yourself successful at managing your debt and maintaining a good credit rating.

Department Store Accounts

Department store cards do not provide as strong a reference on credit reports as bankcards. Not only are they easier to obtain, but the credit limits are low, and the “high credit” (the most you have ever charged) are low. Furthermore, you can use them only at the issuing store. Nevertheless, a timely paid department store card can help you develop a good credit history.

Disputing Errors In Your Credit File

The Fair Credit Reporting Act (FCRA) protects consumers in the case of inaccurate or incomplete information in credit files. The FCRA requires credit bureaus to investigate and correct any errors in your file.

If you find any incorrect or incomplete information in your file, write to the credit bureau and ask them to investigate the information. Under the FCRA, they have about thirty days to contact the creditor and find out whether the information is correct. If not, it will be deleted.

Be aware that credit bureaus are not obligated to include all of your credit accounts in your report. If, for example, the credit union that holds your credit card account is not a paying subscriber of the credit bureau, the bureau is not obligated to add that reference to your file. Some may do so, however, for a small fee.

Bankruptcy

Most lenders automatically reject anyone whose application or credit file indicates a bankruptcy. Chapter 13 in which (a debt reorganization plan under which all debts are eventually repaid) stays on credit reports until the debt is repaid plus an additional seven years. Chapter 7 (straight bankruptcy and partial or full liquidation of debts) remains on your credit files for ten years. Few creditors, however, draw any distinction between the two types, so you don’t get any “credit” for having repaid your bills using Chapter 13.

In addition to the bankruptcy itself remaining on your report for ten years, each separate account that was discharged through bankruptcy can be reported on your file for up to seven years.

Child Support

Delinquent child support frequently appears on credit reports. In 1984, Congress amended the federal Child Support Enforcement (CSE) legislation to require more routine reporting of delinquent payments. State child support enforcement agencies must report overdue child support to a credit bureau that requests such information, as long as the amount exceeds $1,000. CSE agencies can also report delinquencies of any amount on a voluntary basis.

Before a CSE agency reports your delinquent child support debts to a credit bureau, it must tell you that it is going to do so and provide you with information on how to dispute the delinquency.

Closed Accounts And Inactive Accounts

You may be surprised to find you are turned down for a loan because you have too much credit available. Accounts you no longer use, or have paid off, can count against you if they are listed as “open” on a credit report.

The act of paying off a revolving account does not, in itself, result in it’s being “closed” in the eyes of lenders. Further, some creditors do not report to credit bureaus the fact that accounts are closed.

If a closed account appears on your credit report as open, dispute the entry with the credit bureau. The Fair Reporting Act gives consumers the right to dispute any information in their credit file they believe inaccurate or incomplete. Explain to the credit bureau that you would like the report to reflect the account as closed. It is also a good idea to send a certified letter to the creditor requesting that the entry is corrected with all the credit bureaus to which it has been reported.

Every time you close an account, ask the creditor to report it as “closed by consumer” to all Credit Bureaus to which the account has previously been reported. Make this request in writing, and ask for written confirmation that it has been done. If you have trouble getting confirmation from customer service representatives, ask to speak with a credit manager. Be sure to comply with the lender’s procedures for closing the account, such as returning credit cards or unused credit line checks. Your cardholder agreement will have those instructions.

Employment

Lenders generally give more “points” to applicants who have been at the same job for two years or more. Self-employed people, who often have a hard time getting credit, might try contacting the lender before applying to find out what additional information can improve your chances. Some lenders ask for copies of your business license, tax returns for the past years, or checking account statements to verify your cash flow.

If you have changed jobs recently, indicate on your application whether you have stayed in the same field, since some lenders will consider the length of time in your field if the length of time in your job is not sufficient.

Collection Accounts And Charge-Offs

Collection accounts are those that have been sent to collections by the creditor – either to the creditor’s own collection department or an outside agency. Profit-and-loss accounts (also called charge-offs) are those the creditor decided could not be collected, and that were written off as a loss. Once a charge-off is sent to a collection agency or department, it turns into a collection account for reporting purposes. Collection accounts and profit-and-loss accounts are negative marks on credit reports.

Should you pay a collection account? On the one hand, unpaid collection accounts can prevent you from getting other credit. On the other hand, some creditors reject anyone whose credit files list collection accounts or charge-offs-whether or not they have been paid.

Collection accounts can legally remain on a report for seven years. They are reported to credit bureaus beginning on the date the collection agency received them from the creditor.

Charge-offs, also called profit-and-loss accounts, are accounts that have been written off lenders’ books as “uncollectible.” If a charge-off account is not due to bankruptcy, the lender will usually turn it over to a collection agency, which will then attempt to collect. It then becomes a “collection account” (discussed below) for reporting purposes. Charge-offs are reported from the date they were charged off – the date the creditor decided the account was too far past due to get payment through normal channels and decided to close the account.

Charge-off or collection accounts on a credit report are extremely negative. If you pay the charge-off via the collection agency, make sure the lender updates the account as a “paid charge-off.”

The fact that delinquency (paying late) began before the account was placed for collection (or charged off) does not require the reporting date (the date the seven-year reporting begins) to be moved back, and the fact that payment was made after the account was placed for collection does not allow the date to be moved forward.

If you do not pay a collection account, the lender may sue you. If the lender gets a legal judgment against you, the judgment can remain on your credit report seven years or more from the date the case was decided.

In exchange for paying off a collection account, you may be able to negotiate with the creditor or collection agency the permanent removal of the negative information from your credit bureau files. Lenders are under no obligation to make such an agreement, however.

Late Payments

Recent late payments – within the past six months or one year – are especially damaging to your credit record. Just one payment more than thirty days late in the past year can hurt your chances of getting credit. Late payments on bankcard accounts are usually the most damaging since bankcards are such an important reference.

Be sure to get the minimum payment in the mail on time each month. As far as your payment rating (R-l, R-2 or I-l, I-2, etc.), it makes no difference whether your monthly payment is the minimum or a large payment. Just the minimum on time will keep your rating in good shape.

There’s one exception: If you are near your credit limits on most or all of your accounts, you may be considered a poor credit risk whether or not you pay on time. See the section on “Credit Limits for further discussion.

Length Of Credit History

Many people with no credit history find it nearly impossible to get a major credit card or, to a lesser extent, other credit. Scoring systems are not designed with the first-time credit user in mind.

Bankcard issuers generally want to see at least a year’s worth of timely payments on other accounts before issuing a card.

If you do not have a credit record, you may have to smart small. You may want to start by getting a gasoline card. Chevron reports payments to the credit bureau monthly, while most other oil company cards do not. And get a few department store cards.

Your best option for establishing a positive credit history may be a secured Visa or MasterCard. These credit cards are offered through bankcard issuers who have customers put up several hundred dollars in collateral in exchange for a card with a small credit limit. As you use the card, your bill-paying behavior is reported to a credit bureau and your credit history improves.

Military Service People

Those in the military may find it difficult to get credit because they have a low income, move frequently, or do not have sufficient credit history. In addition, the fact that their wages cannot be garnished makes some creditors hesitate.

One of the main reasons people in the military cannot get credit cards is the fraud associated with APO boxes. If you are in the military, live overseas, and are applying for a credit card, list your stateside address, your parents’ address, or a P.O. box, instead of an APO.

If you are having trouble getting a credit card because of a lack of credit history, you may want to try a secured credit card.

Mortgages

Most mortgages that are 90 days or more delinquent must now be reported to credit bureaus. Some mortgage companies elect to report all mortgages to credit bureaus. This policy is a plus for homeowners since a mortgage can be a sign of stability to a lender.

Never pay your mortgage late. If your mortgage has a grace period (e.g., “Payment due January 1. After January 10, late charges will be assessed.”), do not take this to mean you can pay between January 1 and January 10. If you pay after the first due date, your payment will probably be considered late, and the late payment will appear on your credit report.

Negative Information

Negative information on a credit report is any information that may cause you to be turned down for credit or reduce your chances for loan approval. Negative information includes late payments, legal judgments, collection accounts, liens, and charge-offs.

There is no way to remove negative information that is correct. If you paid any accounts that were charged-off, sent to collections, or for which the lender obtained a judgment against you, make sure these accounts are noted as paid. If any of these accounts remains unpaid, you are almost certain to be rejected for other loans. An unpaid collection account or judgment sends up a red flag to other creditors that the company to whom you owe the money could take further legal action against you, endangering your ability to pay other bills. Please see the section on “Collection Accounts” for further information.

Do not be taken in by companies that, for a fee, offer to “fix bad credit” or “remove negative information” from credit reports. If it is possible to fix your bad credit, you can do it yourself, as long as you have the right information. You do not need to pay a fee to one of these companies to fix your credit problems.

Number Of Credit Accounts

Creditors want to see that you are able to handle credit over a period of time, and good credit references on your credit report help prove this ability. However, do not carry too much credit. Generally, if you have four or more bankcards, you are risking being turned down for “too many bankcards.”

Over The Limit

Going over the limit on your credit cards will often count against you.

Payments

It does not matter if you pay your balance in full each month or just make minimum payments, as far as your payment rating is concerned, as long as you make at least your minimum monthly payment on time each month.

While making only the minimum payments does not affect your payment record, you may have trouble getting credit if you are carrying high balances on most of your accounts.

Previous Company Experience

Having had a previous loan with the lender to which you are applying can improve your chances of getting another loan there.

Recent Loans

Just as creditors do not want to see too many recent inquiries on a credit file, they do not want to see a number of recently opened loans, especially if you are new to credit.

Revolving Credit

Revolving credit means a line of credit. You are approved to borrow up to a certain limit, and you can draw upon all or part of that credit line whenever you choose. Your payments vary depending on the amount you have borrowed.

Installment credit is a fixed amount of credit you borrow and agree to pay back on a fixed schedule. Your payments are the same each month.

Revolving credit is a better reference than installment credit because applications for revolving credit are often scrutinized more carefully.

Buy Now, Pay Later (BNPL)

Starting in 2022, the three major credit bureaus (Equifax, Experian, and TransUnion) will add information to consumer credit reports from companies such as Affirm, Klarna, and Afterpay that offer buy now, pay later (BNPL) loans. Missing payments or taking on too many of these “short-term” loans could cause your credit score to drop.

Income/Income Per Dependent

Be sure to list gross (before tax), not net (after tax), income on your loan application, unless the application asks for net income. Include income from a part-time job, public assistance or child support. The lender cannot discriminate against individuals with these sources of income in scoring an application. A creditor is permitted to determine whether that source of income is reliable.

Some banks may approve loans for incomes as low as $10,000 per year. Others require higher income for some loans. Some banks will divide your income by the number of your dependents to determine your “income per dependent.” If so, the application will ask how many dependents you have.

Inquiries

Inquiries, which appear at the end of your credit report, tell you who has seen it recently. They are very important when you apply for credit. Lenders almost always look at how many inquiries you have when evaluating your application. Consumers with “too many inquiries” are often turned down, due to a concern that they are applying for too much credit at one time, that they are on a spending spree, or that there is potential fraud.

Generally, a bankcard issuer wants no more than six inquiries in the past six months on an applicant’s file. However, there is no set number for excessive inquiries, and every lender sets its own policy.

Apply only for credit you really want, and wait for a response on each application before applying elsewhere.

Lenders generally do not look at the sources of inquiries in counting them against the applicant. Thus, if you are applying for a car loan, you may think that only inquiries from car dealers will count against you, but in actuality all inquiries reported by credit bureaus are counted. If you have been shopping for a car loan and have several inquiries from auto dealers on your file, those inquiries could hurt your chances of getting a credit card. Or, if you have been trying to get a mortgage, you could find yourself unable to get a major credit card for several months because your credit report lists a number of inquiries from mortgage lenders

Auto dealers often look at customers’ credit files without their knowledge or permission. If you go to a dealership to test drive a car, the salesperson will often pull up your credit file, and use the information in deciding how to “sell” you. It is important to tell the salesperson that you do not want your credit file accessed unless you give permission.

The consumer credit laws do not cover inquiries, so once they are on your file there is nothing you can do to have them removed. It is always worth trying to challenge inquiries with the credit bureau, but be aware that many credit bureaus refuse to investigate them. If you have too many inquiries, you may simply have to wait six months before applying for more credit. Inquiries generally stay on credit reports for two years.

Some credit bureaus list inquiries by code, rather than by the name of the company. The Fair Credit Reporting Act requires that a credit bureau explains all information on your report that you do not understand, so request names for all the coded companies listed under the inquiries section.

If an inquiry is coded “PRM” or “PSC,” or has the word “promotional” next to it, then a lender has paid the credit bureau to screen suitable prospects for a “preapproved” mailing. The lender supplies the bureau with a list of names and addresses and a set of credit criteria and asks the bureau to determine which candidates meet their criteria. The lender then receives from the credit bureau a list of the names that meet the qualifications, and those consumers receive a “prescreened” or “preapproved” credit offer.

Inquiries noted as “csmr” or “consumer” indicate you have seen your own credit file.

It is the policy of the major credit bureaus not to include promotional or consumer inquiries when transmitting the file to a lender, so review of your own file or prescreening will not hurt your chances of getting credit.

Cosigning An Account

You may be asked to cosign an account to allow someone else to obtain a loan. With cosigning, your payment history and assets are used to qualify the cosigner for the loan.

We recommend that you do not cosign a loan, whether for a family member, friend, or employee. Many have found that cosigning a loan only leads to trouble.

Bear in mind that cosigning a loan bears all the financial and legal consequences of taking out the loan yourself. When you cosign, you are signing a contract that makes you responsible for the entire debt. If the other cosigner does not pay or makes late payments, it will probably show up on your credit record. If the person for whom you cosigned does not pay the loan, the collection company will be entitled to try to collect from you.

If the cosigned loan is reported on your credit report, another lender will view the cosigned account as if it were your own debt. Further, if the information is correct, it will remain on your credit report for up to seven years.

If someone asks you to cosign a loan, suggest other alternatives such as a secured credit card by which they can build a credit history. If you are asked to cosign for someone whose income is not high enough to qualify for a loan, you are actually doing them a favor by refusing-they will be less likely to be overwhelmed by too-high debts. At any rate, consult with your lawyer before cosigning, since state laws regarding a cosigner’s liability vary.

If you have already cosigned for someone, and he or she is not making payments on time, consider making the payments yourself and asking the cosigner to pay you directly in order to protect your credit rating.

Credit Limits

A credit limit is the maximum amount available to you from a certain lender. For example, a credit card issuer may grant you a credit limit of $1,000, meaning that once you charge $1,000, you will not be allowed to incur additional charges until you pay off some of your debt.

When creditors evaluate your application for credit, they ascertain whether, if you were to use all your available credit, you would be over your head. They usually consider these factors:

  • How close you are to your credit limits
  • The total credit you have available
  • The number of accounts you hold

Creditors may consider not only how much you currently owe, but also how much credit you have available. Having too much credit available can count against you. Also, being at or near the limit on your credit cards can count against you.

Obtaining Your Credit Reports

Credit reports are records of consumers’ bill-paying habits collected, stored and sold by credit bureaus. Credit reports are also called credit records, credit files, and credit histories.

The Fair Credit Reporting Act (FCRA) entitles each consumer to one free disclosure every 12 months. In addition, residents of California, colorado, Connecticut, Georgia, Maine, Maryland, Massachusetts, Minnesota, Montana, New Jersey, Puerto Rico, Vermont, or the US Virgin Islands, may be entitled to a second personal credit report at free or reduced price from each of the three major credit bureaus:

If you have been denied credit, employment, or insurance you can request that the credit bureau involved provide you with a free copy of your credit report, but you must request it promptly within 60 days. Request a copy through their websites or call the toll free telephone numbers provided.

ECOA Designation Codes

The Equal Credit Opportunity Act (ECOA) requires creditors who report information about accounts to report it in the names of all people with a relationship to the account, including cosigners or authorized users. To help lenders identify your legal liability on all your credit accounts, credit bureaus add a code to each account, termed the ECOA code.

Each credit bureau lists ECOA codes differently, but these are the basic categories:

  • Individual: You alone are legally responsible. This designation gives you a strong credit reference, assuming a good history.
  • Joint: You and someone else – often a spouse – are both legally liable. A joint account is equal to an individual account for building your credit history.
  • Co-signer, secondarily liable: You signed loan documents for someone else to help them qualify for a loan.
  • Co-signer, primarily liable: You took out an account for yourself, but someone else co-signed for the loan to ensure payment.
  • Authorized user: You can use the account and may have a card in your name, but you did not sign the application and are not legally responsible. Because you have no legal obligation, this designation does not help you get your own credit history.
  • Undesignated: No status was reported by the creditor reporting the account information.

Fair Credit Reporting Act (FCRA)

The Fair and Accurate Credit Transactions Act of 2003 (FACT or FACT Act) is an amendment to the Fair Credit Reporting Act (FCRA) of 1970 and went into effect in December 2003. It was amended most recently in 2010 to include the provisions of the Consumer Financial Protection Act of 2010 (CFPA), which became effective on July 21, 2011, and the Red Flag Program Clarification Act of 2010.

Consumers can now request and obtain a free credit report once every twelve months from each of the three nationwide consumer credit reporting companies (Equifax, Experian and TransUnion). In addition, the act also contains provisions relating to identity theft and fraud alerts, truncated credit and debit card numbers on non-manual receipts, and securely disposing of records containing consumer credit card information.

Fair Credit Reporting Act (FCRA) of 1970 gave consumers easier access to, and more information about, their credit files. Consumers also have the right to find out the information in your credit file, to dispute information you believe inaccurate or incomplete, and to find out who has seen your credit report in the past six months.

Finance Company Credit Cards

Many systems actually score against people with one or more finance company accounts on their credit reports, since it appears to them that you had a hard time getting credit from traditional sources.

There is a difference between “captive” finance tradelines and “regular” finance trade-lines. Captive finance tradelines are offered through auto financing sources such as GMAC or Ford Credit and are generally not considered negative.

Fraud

“Application fraud” is when a thief uses your credit information to apply for credit in your name. Wrongdoers use your name, Social Security number, address and, perhaps, credit references to apply for credit. They can get much of this information from public sources (e.g., Who’s Who Directories), from someone who has access to credit files (e.g., employees of car dealerships, department stores, or credit bureaus), from personal checks, or from stolen wallets. Credit thieves may be aided by “credit doctors” who are paid hundreds of dollars for finding a good credit record for the thief to use.

Another form of application fraud involves the interception of pre-approved credit card offers in the mail. The thief fills out the application and either changes the address or steals the credit card out of your mailbox when it arrives at your address.

You won’t find out about application fraud until months after it occurs-usually only after you get dunning notices from collection agencies, or when you get a copy of your credit report and see the debts run up by the thief.

If you find a bill that you do not believe belongs to you on your credit report, check it out immediately. First, contact the creditor to find out if they have an account in your name. Ask to see a copy of the original application if they say you do.

Joint Accounts

Joint accounts are those in which two or more people-usually spouses or members of a family have equal responsibility for paying the bills. A joint account helps each person on the account build a credit history, but also has its pitfalls. If one person on a joint account does not pay the bills on time (and that payment history is reported to a credit bureau), the other party will likely find his or her credit history damaged.

Joint accounts can be a problem in a divorce. Responsibility for paying off joint accounts is often assigned in the divorce decree or agreement. But regardless of how the judge allocates those bills, both spouses are legally responsible in the eyes of creditors.

If any joint accounts remain open during or after the divorce and one spouse runs up bills and doesn’t pay them, both spouses’ credit histories will be harmed, since both are legally liable under the credit contract (spelled out in the card agreement or other papers). In addition, creditors have the right to try to collect from either spouse.

Close out all joint accounts as soon as possible after you know a divorce will occur. Do not wait for a final decree.

Name/Alias

If you have a common name, or are a Jr. or Sr., you may find other people’s information on your credit report. The credit bureaus say that there is not much they can do to prevent this mistake from occurring, so if you find this to be a problem, monitor your credit report carefully. Certainly, you should check it before you apply for a major loan or mortgage.

An alias is another name for you on your credit report. It may be another name under which you have applied for credit (a nickname, or a variation of your name, for example) or it may be a name of someone else. It is possible, if an alias appears on your credit report, that actual fraud was involved. Someone else may have applied for credit using your qualifications and the name they used may have been entered as an alias.

If you find an alias on your credit report, and it does not belong to you, contact the credit bureau immediately to have it removed.

Putting An Explanation In Your Credit File

The Fair Credit Reporting Act states that if you dispute information on your credit file that you believe to be inaccurate or incomplete, you can ask the credit bureau to investigate the problem. If the credit bureau’s investigation does not resolve the dispute, you can file a brief statement explaining the nature of the dispute. Your statement becomes a permanent part of your file and will remain on the report as long as the negative information is reported. The credit bureau may limit your statement to one hundred words or less, but must help you summarize it if you ask them to do so.

Some credit bureaus also allow you to add a statement to your file explaining circumstances that led to the reporting of negative information to your file. For instance, if you fell behind on your bills for several months due to illness or a job lay-off, you may be able to add a short 100-word statement explaining the problem. If you do add a statement to your file, make it brief and factual. In general, if you provide a consumer statement that contains medical information related to service providers or medical procedures, then you expressly consent to include this information in every credit report issued for you.

Understanding Your Credit Report

Credit reports contain symbols and codes that are abstract to the average consumer. Every credit bureau report also includes a key that explains each code. Some of these keys decipher the information while others just cause more confusion.

Read your report carefully, making a note of anything you do not understand. The credit bureau is required by law to provide trained personnel to explain it to you. If accounts are identified by code number, or if there is a creditor listed on the report that you do not recognize, ask the credit bureau to supply you with the name and location of the creditor so you can ascertain if you do indeed hold an account with that creditor.

If the report includes accounts that you do not believe are yours, it is extremely important to find out why they are listed on your report. It is possible they are the accounts of a relative or someone with a name similar to yours. Less likely, but more importantly, someone may have used your credit information to apply for credit in your name. This type of fraud can cause a great deal of damage to your credit report, so investigate the unknown account as thoroughly as possible.

It is vital that you understand every piece of information on your credit report in order that you be able to identify possible errors or omissions.

Government and Non-Profit Agencies

The following agencies are responsible for enforcing federal laws that govern credit card transactions and may be a good resource in the event you believe that there is incorrect information on your credit report. Questions concerning a particular card issuer should be directed to the enforcement agency responsible for that particular credit card issuer.

State Member Banks of the Reserve System:
Consumer & Community Affairs
Board of Governors of the Federal Reserve System
20th & Constitution Avenue, N.W.
Washington, D.C. 20551

National Banks:
Comptroller of the Currency
Customer Assistance Group
1301 McKinney Street
Suite 3450
Houston, TX 77010
Tel. (800) 613-6743

Federal Credit Unions:
National Credit Union Administration
1775 Duke St # 4206
Alexandria, VA 22314-6115

Non-Member Federally Insured Banks:
Federal Deposit Insurance Corporation
Consumer Response Center
1100 Walnut St, Box #11
Kansas City, MO 64106

Federally Insured Savings and Loans, and Federally Chartered State Banks:
Comptroller of the Currency
Customer Assistance Group
1301 McKinney Street
Suite 3450
Houston, TX 77010
Tel. (800) 613-6743

Other Credit Card Issuers (includes retail gasoline companies):
Bureau of Consumer Protection
Federal Trade Commission
600 Pennsylvania Avenue, NW
Washington, D.C. 20580

The U.S. Postal Inspection Service:
This office covers mail fraud, sexually offensive materials, solicitations that look like government materials but are not. If you suspect such violations, contact your local Postmaster or Postal Inspector or:

Criminal Investigations Service Center
Attn: Mail Fraud
222 S. Riverside Plaza Ste. 1250
Chicago Il 60606-6100
Tel. 877-876-2455

The Federal Trade Commission:
Does not handle individual complaints, but reporting failure to deliver, late delivery, unordered merchandise, misrepresentation or fraud helps uncover widespread abuses that the FTC might take action to stop.

Division of Enforcement
Federal Trade Commission
600 Pennsylvania Avenue, NW
Washington, DC 20580
Tel. (202) 326-2222

National Do Not Call Registry:
If you wish to have your name removed from telephone lists of marketing companies.

National Do Not Call Registry
Federal Trade Commission
600 Pennsylvania Avenue, NW
Washington, DC 20580
website: www.donotcall.gov

Direct Marketing Mail Opt-Out:
Consumers who do not wish to receive promotional mail at home

Direct Marketing Association
1120 Avenue of the Americas
NY, NY New York, NY 10036-6700
Tel. 212.768.7277
website: www.DMAChoice.org

Low or No-Cost Credit Cards:
Bankrate.com lists banks charging no fees and low interest rates for credit cards. Visit the website: www.bankrate.com